Puentes Grandes lies half-way between Marianao and Havana. It possesses
the only nail factory in the country, worked by several hundred coolies.
Carmello is a village of restaurants and cabarets, situated at the head
of a little sandy bay glorified by a tradition that it was once visited
by Columbus. Hither people drive out of an evening from Havana, to eat
oysters, lobsters, and other crustacea, and, above all, to enjoy the
cool sea breeze. Here I first beheld the most astonishing of all
flowers--the _aristolochia pelicana_. It is a variety of the
_aristolochia sìpho_, which has been recently brought over to England
from America and acclimatised, and which is popularly known as the
"Dutchman's pipe," on account of the peculiar shape of the flower, which
is exactly like a little tobacco-pipe. The Cuban variety is a sturdy
creeper, with enormous, heart-shaped leaves. This flower must be seen to
be appreciated. When open, it presents the appearance of a huge porous
plaster about a foot in diameter. The edge is perfectly white and waxy,
the centre a dark brown, with a slit in the middle, opening into a
pod-shaped cup, and furnished with sharp bristles, usually garnished
with drops of syrup, to allure the flies and other insects, which, when
once they enter that little "parlour," find themselves in a veritable
ogre's castle, whence no escape is possible, for the hungry flower soon
absorbs and devours them. When the pouch is full,--and it will contain
several hundred insects,--the enormous flower closes, and assumes the
exact shape of a beautiful white duck. Severed from its stem, and placed
in the centre of a bouquet of flowers, or on a sheet of looking-glass in
the centre of a dining-table, this weird flower produces a very
startling effect. It is the custom in Havana to place one of these
strange freaks of nature in the centre of a bouquet, which is always
offered to a successful prima-donna on her first appearance at the
National Theatre.
One fine morning towards the middle of Lent I left Havana with a friend,
to make a tour of the other cities of the island, beginning with
Matanzas.
A Cuban railway is unlike any other railway in the world. The carriages
are built on the American plan, with a promenade from end to end, but
there are no glass windows, and when one considers the heat, one is
thankful that there are no cushions, to harbour dust and insects. The
conductor stands in front, and is perpetually ringing a bell, which does
not seem to help on the speed of the train in the very least degree.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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