Very brilliantly painted in fresco are the walls of the "Golden Lion" of
Matanzas. Venus rises from the sea in your bedroom, or rather in that
portion of an enormous dormitory which is allotted to you. Paris offers
the golden apple to the three goddesses in the dining-room, and the
whole court of Olympus, more or less successfully limned by an Italian
artist, occupies the lofty walls of the general sitting-room on the
first and only floor. The waiters are nearly all Coolies, and very clean
and tidy they are. The landlady, in the days of my youth, was a French,
coloured dame of enormous size, but also of almost preternatural
activity. "Madame" was everywhere, upstairs and downstairs, and never
seemed to go to sleep. It mattered little at what hour of the day or
night you happened to come in, you were sure to find the old lady, with
a huge turban on her head, ready to bid you welcome, with the very
broadest of smiles. As my friend and myself had brought her a letter,
which, by-the-way, she could not read, of introduction from one of her
Havanese patrons, she made a prodigious fuss in our honour. She felt
sure, she said, that, being Englishmen, we should like to have a bedroom
all to ourselves, to which reasonable proposition we very naturally
assented. Presently she took us upstairs to a very long and very lofty
dormitory, furnished with about a dozen brass bedsteads, arranged
against the walls in a double line, each duly protected by mosquito
curtains, and supplemented by a table, a chair, an iron tripod, bearing
a basin and jug, and a flat candlestick. Having paraded us once or twice
up and down this apartment, she suddenly stopped in front of two neat
little bedsteads standing side by side, and, pointing to them, informed
us in Creole French (she came from Martinique) that she destined them
for our accommodation. But what about the proffered privacy? Were we to
dress and undress in the presence of the strange occupants of the other
dozen beds, and were we to be soothed, or otherwise, throughout the
dreary watches of the night, by their combined snores. We resolved,
between ourselves, to make no comment, to leave fate and Madame to work
out our destiny. We descended to our dinner without venturing the least
observation. When we went upstairs again to unpack our travelling
trunks, we were heartily amused to find that the worthy old soul had
fenced us off from our future companions, with four long sheets,
fastened by old-fashioned washing-pegs, to a rope stretched tightly
across the room.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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