Culinary Chemistry: The Scientific Principles of Cookery, with Concise Instructions for Preparing Good and Wholesome Pickles, Vinegar, Conserves, Fruit Jellies, Marmalades, and Various Other Alimentary Substances Employed in Domestic Economy, with Observations on the Chemical Constitution and Nutritive Qualities of Different Kinds of Food.Accum, Friedrich Christian
Science
Culinary Chemistry: The Scientific Principles of Cookery, with Concise Instructions for Preparing Good and Wholesome Pickles, Vinegar, Conserves, Fruit Jellies, Marmalades, and Various Other Alimentary Substances Employed in Domestic Economy, with Observations on the Chemical Constitution and Nutritive Qualities of Different Kinds of Food.
Accum, Friedrich Christian
Cooking; Food poisoning
[14] Principles of Currency, and Elements of Political
Economy--1820.
Cookery has often drawn down on itself the animadversions of both
moralists, physicians, and wits, who have made it a subject for their
vituperations and their ridicule.
So early as the time of the patriarch Isaac, the sacred historian casts
blame upon Esau for being epicurean enough to transfer his birth-right
for a mess of pottage.
Jacob is blamed for making savoury meat with a kid for his father, with
a view to rob Esau of the paternal blessing.
Diogenes, the Cynic, meeting a young man who was going to a feast, took
him up in the street and carried him home to his friends, as one who was
running into evident danger had he not prevented him. The whole tribe,
indeed, of the Stoics and Cynics, laughed at cookery, pretending, in
their vanity and pride, to be above the desire of eating niceties.
Lucian, with his inexhaustible satire, most effectually and humourously
exposed these their pretences.
In our own times, we have had writers of eminence who have attacked the
use of a variety of food as a dreadful evil. “Should we not think a man
mad,” says Addison, “who at one meal will devour fowl, flesh, and fish;
swallow oil, and vinegar, salt, wines, and spices; throw down sallads of
twenty different herbs, sauces of an hundred ingredients, confections,
and fruits of numberless sweets and flavours? What unnatural effects
must such a medley produce in the body? For my part, when I behold a
table set out in all its magnificence, I fancy, that I see gouts and
dropsies, fevers and lethargies, and other innumerable distempers, lying
in ambuscade among the dishes.”
All this, and the like is, no doubt, very plausible, and very fine, and,
like many other fine speeches of modern reformers, it is more fine than
just. It is indeed as good a theory as may be, that cookery is the
source of most, or all, of our distempers; but withal it is _a mere
theory_, and only true in a very limited degree. The truth is, that it
is not cookery which is to blame, if we surfeit ourselves with its good
dishes; but our own sensual and insatiable appetite, and gluttony, which
prompt us to seek their gratification at the expense even of our health.
Savages, whose cookery is in the rudest state, are more apt to over-eat
themselves than the veriest glutton of a luxurious and refined people;
a fact, which of itself, is sufficient to prove, that it is not cookery
which is the cause of gluttony and surfeiting. The savage, indeed,
suffers less from his gluttony than the sedentary and refined gormand;
for, after sleeping, sometimes for a whole day, after gorging himself
with food, hunger again drives him forth to the chace, in which he soon
gets rid of the ill-effects of his overloaded stomach. Surely cookery is
not to blame for the effects of gluttony, indolence, and sedentary
occupations; yet it does appear, that all its ill effects are
erroneously charged to the account of the refined art of cooking.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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