For further information on this and other points, much may be learnt
from Mr. Wright's excellent book of 'Domestic Manners and Sentiments
of the Middle Ages,' where some good illustrations of Saxon
drinking-scenes are sketched from the Harleian and other manuscripts.
From the scarcity of materials descriptive of the social habits of the
Normans, we glean but little as to their customs of drinking; in all
probability they differed but slightly from those of the Saxons,
though at this time wine became of more frequent use, the vessels from
which it was quaffed being bowl-shaped, and generally made of glass.
Will of Malmsbury, describing the customs of Glastonbury soon after
the Conquest, says, that on particular occasions the monks had "mead
in their cans, and wine in their grace-cup." Excess in drinking
appears to have been looked upon with leniency; for, in the stories of
Reginald of Durham, we read of a party drinking all night at the house
of a priest; and in another he mentions a youth passing the whole
night drinking at a tavern with his monastic teacher, till the one
cannot prevail on the other to go home. The qualities of good wine in
the 12th century are thus singularly set forth:--"It should be clear
like the tears of a penitent, so that a man may see distinctly to the
bottom of the glass; its colour should represent the greenness of a
buffalo's horn; when drunk, it should descend impetuously like
thunder; sweet-tasted as an almond; creeping like a squirrel; leaping
like a roebuck; strong like the building of a Cistercian monastery;
glittering like a spark of fire; subtle like the logic of the schools
of Paris; delicate as fine silk; and colder than crystal." If we
pursue our theme through the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries, we find
but little to edify us, those times being distinguished more by their
excess and riot than by superiority of beverages or the customs
attached to them. It would be neither profitable nor interesting to
descant on scenes of brawling drunkenness, which ended not
unfrequently in fierce battles--or pause to admire the congregation of
female gossips at the taverns, where the overhanging sign was either
the branch of a tree, from which we derive the saying that "good wine
needs no bush," or the equally common appendage of a besom hanging
from the window, which has supplied us with the idea of "hanging out
the broom." The chief wine drank at this period was Malmsey, first
imported into England in the 13th century, when its average price was
about 50_s._ a butt; this wine, however, attained its greatest
popularity in the 15th century. There is a story in connexion with
this wine which makes it familiar to every schoolboy; and that is, the
part it played in the death of the Duke of Clarence. Whether that
nobleman did choose a butt of Malmsey, and thus carry out the idea of
drowning his cares in wine, as well as his body, matters but little,
we think, to our readers. We may however mention that although great
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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