While speaking of these times, we must not forget to mention "the cup
that cheers, but not inebriates;" for it was from the introduction of
tea- and coffee-houses that clubs sprang into existence, by a process
unnecessary here to dilate on, but of which an excellent account may
be found in Philip and Grace Wharton's 'Wits and Beaux of Society.'
The first coffee-house established was the 'Grecian,' kept by one
Constantine, a Greek, who advertised that "the pure berry of the
coffee was to be had of him as good as could be anywhere found," and
shortly afterwards succeeded in securing a flourishing trade by
selling an infusion of the said berry in small cups. After him came
Mr. Garraway, who set forth that "tea was to be had of him in leaf and
in drink;" and thus took its rise Garraway's well-known coffee-house,
so celebrated for the sayings and doings of Dr. Johnson, one of which,
being somewhat to the point, we may, in passing, notice. "I admit,"
said he, "that there are sluggish men who are improved by drinking, as
there are fruits which are not good till they are rotten; there are
such men, but they are medlars."
In the eighteenth century the principal cups that we find noted were
those compounded of Beer, the names of which are occasionally
suggestive of too great a familiarity on the part of their
worshippers,--to wit, Humptie-dumptie, Clamber-clown, Stiffle, Blind
Pinneaux, Old Pharaoh, Three threads, Knock-me-down, Hugmatee, and
Foxcomb. All these were current at the beginning of that century. Then,
towards the end of it we find Cock-ale, Stepony, Stitchback, Northdown,
and Mum. _Mum_ is ale brewed from malted wheat. It is so called from
Christison Mumme, a brewer of Braunschweig in Wolfenbüttel, who lived
at the end of the 15th century, and whose house is still standing. When
three Essex men meet to drink a pot together, the draught taken by the
first is called the Neckem, that by the second the Sinkem, the last man
draining the pot by drinking the Swankens, from which we find, in
Bailey's Dictionary, "Swankie," the drop which remains at the bottom of
a cup. "Bragget" is a northland word derived from the hero Braga, who
is one of the mythological gods of the Edda, and consisted of spiced
ale drank on Mothering Sunday, a kind of metheglin derived from Bragawd
(Welsh). It is still drank in Lancashire. All these were very similar
in composition, and their precise recipes are scarcely worth recording.
Many noted houses of entertainment, both in town and country, were
distinguished by their particular brewage of these compounds. But we
can only find a single instance of a house becoming famous in this
century for claret-cups, in many respects the most desirable of any
drink: that one hostelry was the 'Heaven,' in Fleet Street, so often
quoted by the ephemeral writers of the age.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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