Let your utensils be clean, and your ingredients of first-rate
quality, and, unless you have some one very trustworthy and reliable,
take the matter in hand yourself; for nothing is so annoying to the
host, or so unpalatable to the guests, as a badly compounded cup. In
order that the magnitude of this important business may be fully
understood and properly estimated, we will transfer some of the
excellent aphoristic remarks of the illustrious Billy Dawson (more
properly Bully Dawson, spoken of by Charles Lamb in his 'Popular
Fallacies'), whose illustricity consisted in being the only man who
could brew Punch. This is his testimony:--"The man who sees, does, or
thinks of anything while he is making Punch, may as well look for the
North-west Passage on Mutton Hill. A man can never make good Punch
unless he is satisfied, nay positive, that no man breathing can make
better. I can and do make good Punch, because I do nothing else; and
this is my way of doing it. I retire to a solitary corner, with my
ingredients ready sorted; they are as follows; and I mix them in the
order they are here written. Sugar, twelve tolerable lumps; hot water,
one pint; lemons, two, the juice and peel; old Jamaica rum, two gills;
brandy, one gill; porter or stout, half a gill; arrack, a slight dash.
I allow myself five minutes to make a bowl on the foregoing
proportions, carefully stirring the mixture as I furnish the
ingredients until it actually foams; and then, Kangaroos! how
beautiful it is!!" If, however, for convenience, you place the matter
in the hands of your domestic, I would advise you to caution her on
the importance of the office; and this could not be better effected
than by using the words of the witty Dr. King:--
"O Peggy, Peggy, when thou go'st to brew,
Consider well what you're about to do;
Be very wise--very sedately think
That what you're going to make is--drink;
Consider who must drink that drink, and then
What 'tis to have the praise of honest men;
Then future ages shall of Peggy tell,
The nymph who spiced the brewages so well."
Respecting the size of the cup no fixed rule can be laid down, because
it must mainly depend upon the number who have to partake of it; and
be it remembered that, as cups are not intended to be quaffed _ad
libitum_, as did Bicias, of whom Cornelius Agrippa says,
"To Bicias shee it gave, and sayd,
'Drink of this cup of myne;'
He quickly quafte it, and left not
Of licoure any sygne,"
let _quality_ prevail over _quantity_, and try to hit a happy medium
between the cup of Nestor, which was so large that a young man could
not carry it, and the country half-pint of our own day, which we have
heard of as being so small that a string has to be tied to it to
prevent it slipping down with the cider.
In order to appreciate the delicacy of a well-compounded cup, we would
venture to suggest this laconic rule, "When you drink--think."
OLD RECIPES.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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