Manners and customs; Rites and ceremonies -- Great Britain
Mid-Lent, or Mothering Sunday, has its peculiar fare in simnel cakes. Few
days in the year have received so many titles as this one. It is Mothering
Sunday from the ancient practice of priests and people going, on that day,
in pilgrimage to the mother-church of the district, from which arose also
a traditional habit of children visiting their parents on the same
occasion. At this family re-union simnels were the proper fare. But the
day is also Bragget Sunday, from the draughts of bragget, or mulled ale,
with which, in some parts, notably in Lancashire, the cakes were washed
down. Again it is Fag-pie Sunday, from another refection sacred to it in
the same county, namely a pie of figs and spices. Refreshment Sunday, and
the Sunday of the Five Loaves, have reference to the Eucharistic Gospel
for the day.
The following Sunday, Passion Sunday, has its special dish in _carlings_,
or peas fried in butter; and on Palm Sunday figs were again thought
appropriate. A strange custom, existing till comparatively recent times at
Sellack, in Hertfordshire, was the distribution to those present at church
on Palm Sunday of buns and cider by the churchwardens, with the words,
"Peace and good neighbourhood."
Even the great fast of the year has its peculiar food in the hot cross
buns of Good Friday. These are probably a survival of the heathen practice
of offering consecrated cakes to the gods. They were originally unleavened
cakes, made, it is said, from the dough out of which the hosts for the
altar were baked, a fact which suggests a connection with the Pascal
regulations of the Jews. The stamp of the cross probably marks the effort
of the church to give a Christian significance to a practice that was
found to be practically ineradicable.
Easter, the "Queen of Festivals," has no fare so unmistakably assigned to
it as some other holy days. Hare-pie is the correct thing in some places,
and at Hallaton, in Leicestershire, there is an endowment for providing
hare-pie, bread, and ale, for distribution at this season. At Twickenham
two large cakes were formerly divided among the young folk of the parish
at Easter; a harmless practice which the Puritans suppressed in 1645,
with the result that often attends the efforts of busy-bodies, matters
were altered for the worse; for, thenceforward, penny loaves were
purchased with the money, and flung from the Church Tower to be scrambled
for. At Biddenden, in Kent, a large number of cakes and loaves are given
away on this day, on the former of which is impressed the image of two
females, joined together at hip and shoulder. These are the "Biddenden
Maids," Eliza and Mary Chulkhurst, who are said to have been born in the
village, in the year 1100, thus strangely joined, and in whose memory the
rent of a plot of land, called the "Bread and Cheese Land," is thus
distributed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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