Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
Contrary to all my experience in Cyprus, when we quitted the farmer’s
house, the worthy host at once complied with my request, that he would
make some charge for our accommodation. This I accounted for by the
fact, that the house standing on the highway between Limasol and
Larnaka, would probably attract the attention of more strangers than
could be comfortably entertained without proper remuneration. A present
to the poor, if your resting-place has been a convent, or a little
remembrance to the children of a family, is the most that is expected
throughout all those parts of the East through which I have travelled,
whilst should your entertainer be a man of position and means, you
cannot, without giving offence, do more than offer a “pour boire” to
the four or five men-servants who will appear at the door to see you
start.
Our last day’s journey, which was short but delightful, lay over a wide
tract of cornfields, in traversing which we passed the village of Kiti,
with its little church, embowered in fruit trees, and not far from it
another church standing on a piece of barren ground, without a shrub or
tree near it. On our left towered a magnificent mountain, which rises
abruptly to a height of two thousand feet, and bears upon its summit
the once celebrated monastery of the Holy Cross, or Hagios Stavros.
This building, which is rarely or never obscured by clouds or fog, can
be seen from a considerable distance at sea, and has long been known
to sailors as a landmark. St. Helena is supposed to have presented
this cloister with a valuable relic, which brought many pilgrims and
gifts to the brotherhood. This was a piece of wood, about as long
as a finger, fashioned like a cross, mounted in silver, and had the
reputation of being a veritable portion of the Saviour’s cross.
Whilst it was still light, we came in sight of Larnaka, the cornfields
were crowded with labourers gathering in the harvest, and these, being
principally Greeks, and therefore very conversational, we could hear
a lively hum of many voices long before we reached the spot. We dined
under the shadow of a large fig-tree, which grew upon the brink of a
rippling stream. Numerous cranes, and whole hosts of beccaficos, came
within such tempting reach of our guns, that, as soon as our repast
was over, we started after them, over fields where horses and camels
were grazing, and over marshy ground, until we reached the rolling,
glittering sea. Our sport was excellent, for my dragoman knew every
call and wile by which the birds could be allured, and it required some
determination when it was time to return, to quit our delightful but
peculiar shooting-ground.
On my return to Larnaka I had the luck to chance upon some dear
friends, with whom I supped. Our host produced the best his cellar
contained, in various sorts of wine, winding up with a bottle fifty
years old, most delicious, but so strong that discretion only permitted
us to taste it in thimblefuls.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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