Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
We now drew nigh the monastery of St. Chrisostomo, and very refreshing
was the sight of its walls standing embowered in green trees at the
base of bare and rugged mountains. Olive-trees were planted in some of
its declivities, and oleanders, which had finished flowering, bordered
a small rivulet. Everything around seemed to woo us to repose; the air
was fresh and balmy, and from the mountain height we heard from time
to time the tinkle of the bells of the sheep and goats browsing down
below. Two old monks stood at the door to bid us welcome, and insist
upon our dismounting and accepting their hospitality. These appeared to
be the only inhabitants of the half-ruined pile. I have since learnt
that the number of monks is steadily decreasing in all the monasteries
of Cyprus. In the cloister garden were three lofty cypresses, and a
fine palm-tree. Masses of ivy were clinging about the branches of the
old apple and orange-trees. This garden is at the height of 1300 feet
above the sea, backed by a wall of rock fully 2000 feet high. The eye
turned with relief from this vast, lofty, and rugged expanse, and the
dry parched plain beyond, to the soft green of the shady garden, and
its rippling water.
The two old men appeared delighted to meet with an inhabitant of the
outer world, and earnestly pressed me to remain for some days. My
time was too valuable even for lingering in this delightful retreat.
Our fare consisted only of vegetables. Cyprian monks would appear
to be always fasting—one day they eat turnips and onions, and on the
next pumpkins and beans. This fashion is none of the pleasantest in
a country where the monasteries are the only houses of entertainment
that are always open. As soon as my hosts learnt I was a Bavarian, they
informed me that the celebrated Maria of Molino was the foundress of
their monastery, and a Bavarian by birth. I think the simple-hearted
creatures had a sort of vague idea that she must have been an
ancestress of my own. Dinner over, I seated myself in a cool corner,
but was at once entreated, with outstretched hands, to take another
place, as I was still warm after my journey. This is always the way in
the East. If you are tired and heated, you must not drink, you must not
sleep, and above all, in Heaven’s name! never sit in a draught, without
you want to have fever. The only thing you are permitted to do is to
throw a covering over you and wait till you are cool.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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