Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
As I turned towards the interior of the island, I beheld a
broad expanse glowing in the sunlight. This, the extensive plain of
Messaria, occupies nearly half of the island, and two centuries ago
was one huge highly-cultivated field, filled with corn, vines, fruit,
and vegetables. Numerous cotton and silk weaving establishments also
formerly flourished here. Every year this once fruitful plain becomes
more unfit for cultivation, and stones and marshes usurp what was once
a scene of the highest cultivation. Nothing fills the mind of the
traveller in Cyprus with sadder reflections than the sight of this
general ruin and rapid decay.
I now commenced climbing the precipitous mountain before me, which
towered aloft in rugged majesty, stretching its peaks and precipices
to the right hand and the left. My dragoman endeavoured to follow me,
but sank down in dismay at the task before him. Indistinct murmurings
reached my ear, and I have no doubt that if I could have heard his
words, they were not prayers for my success, but maledictions on my
adventurous head. I believe he and my zaptieh were fully convinced
that my ascent was made in the hope of finding concealed treasure;
for when at last they reached the ruin, my slightest movement was
jealously watched, and my every act evidently regarded with suspicion.
We entered the ancient fortress by an arched doorway, which is still in
good preservation, and mounted slowly from one ruin to another; many
of the chambers in these being mere excavations in the solid rock, and
resembling bakers’ ovens in appearance.
In such places as the nature of the rocks would permit, hollow basins
were formed and channels cut to receive the springs that then flowed
in all directions on the mountain. We came upon several of these
receptacles, and saw traces of what had evidently been much more
important water tanks. In the fortress itself, comparatively slight
walls were interspersed with rude masses of masonry, and both were
cemented to their foundations by mortar, literally as hard as stone.
The ruin appeared to consist of six divisions rising one above the
other, and all connected by the ramparts. Such a fortress could never
have been reduced as long as its defenders had bread and wine enough to
support life. Perhaps there are few stranger scenes than that of a ruin
situated thus in mid-air. Danger in climbing there was none, beyond the
risk of slipping, as we seized at a piece of old masonry in mounting
from rock to rock and tower to tower.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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