Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
Such were my involuntary reflections as we dropped anchor in the
roads of Larnaka on April 21st, 1877. This entrance to the island
displays an expansive bay, the yellow sands of which are bordered by
an extensive plain, broken by bare and rocky hills, and in the blue
distance backed by a chain of mountains. A landscape was before me,
in which the towns, gardens, and buildings constituted only minor
accessories. Larnaka appeared as a mere speck on the bosom of the open
country. The haven contains about fifty houses, built in the centre
of the curve of the bay, and above them wave the variegated flags of
the different consulates, surmounted by pointed minarets and a new
belfry. The town of Larnaka itself lies far behind, and is separated
by wide fields from the haven. Thanks to the kindness of the German
consul, a friendly welcome awaited me at the landing-place, where
I found a dragoman ready to conduct me to my destination. Before
leaving the haven, however, I inspected its streets, which presented
an animated appearance. Artisans plied their trades in all directions,
and dirt reigned supreme. The rows of houses interspersed with stately
mansions, churches, and gardens, filled with waving palms, constitute
its principal attractions; all else is strictly Oriental, namely, its
filth, rags, and miserable huts of wood and clay.
In the Catholic church, we found a solitary monk, who showed us
some fine carvings. The pictures upon the partition which separates
the altar from the rest of the church are diligently kissed by the
worshippers. I could not but approve this custom, if only from the fact
that a law of the church required that no one should salute the sacred
pictures without previously washing his face. This ceremony takes place
once a week, so that, happily, the gold and silver covered panels
are not distinguished by a black circle in the spots where they are
kissed. With the exception of an occasional block of marble built into
the walls of a house, or a sarcophagus, utilised as a receptacle for
water, I saw nothing to recall the ancient power of the busy crowds
that once animated this spot. Their tombs, excavated in the stratum
of chalk, which lies below the surface, were once filled with marble
sarcophagi, which century by century have been dragged out and employed
for building purposes. Hence the revolting name given to this town, for
Larnaka, literally interpreted, means simply a coffin. Others, however,
assert that the name is derived from the fact that the houses were
built upon the site of an ancient graveyard.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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