Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
The two superiors of the monastery accompanied me to the gates, where I
found eight stalwart grey-bearded brothers waiting to bid me farewell.
I could not refrain from commenting on their fine figures, when they
laughingly assured me, there were many more of their stamp to be found
in these mountains. Their faces were sunburnt and ruddy, and contrasted
strangely with the white robes of their order. I may here mention that
these mountaineers love their native hills with an ardour not to be
surpassed by any people in the world. As we descended the steep face
of the mountain the whole scene was still enveloped in a thick mist.
At the bottom we saw two Turkish women tending their cows, and looking
in their white veils like a couple of substantial ghosts. About a
league and a half further on, we passed a deserted church, which was
perched upon a rock, and completely in ruins. We also observed some
sheep, with broad flat tails, grazing on the mountain side. During the
whole of this journey to the coast I could readily have imagined I was
travelling over one of the rocky parts of Northern Germany, whilst the
scenery to the north-east, with its craggy peaks, strongly recalled to
my remembrance some parts of the Vosges mountains. I must, however,
admit that the Cyprian scenery is decidedly finer than that of Upper
Alsace. Such human habitations as we passed were miserable in the
extreme; mere mud-roofed huts with a small aperture to admit of ingress
and egress. These structures closely resemble those I have seen in
the north parts of Samothrace, but the latter are somewhat larger and
certainly cleaner.
After four hours’ hard riding we at length descended into a narrow
valley which opened upon the plains beyond, and afforded us a good
view of the sea, with its yellowish green coast. Our journey through
the mountains was almost over, and on the whole, I must confess to a
feeling of disappointment, as I looked back over all I had seen. During
the last four days the neglected state of the country and the wretched
condition of its people seemed to have thrown a veil of depression
and melancholy over every spot I visited, whilst even the grand and
imposing mountain ranges I had traversed, would not bear comparison
with those of Crete or the Canary Islands.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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