Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
During the period that the island was occupied by the Franks, a
new city sprang up upon the site of ancient Paphos, which has also
disappeared; but of this a ruined church, now used as a cattle-shed,
is all that remains. Still, melancholy as is the present condition of
the spot, so suggestive are the general features of the locality, that
it is not difficult to reconstruct the beautiful landscape it once
presented. The temple was situated upon a broad eminence which sloped
gently towards the sea, which formed, as it were, a border to the
picture. The slope was all covered with luxuriant vegetation.
Towards the interior of the country are a few outlying hills, backed
by picturesque mountain scenery of a much grander character than at
Baffo. As I looked upon them, the sky became overcast, and the sea
overspread by long masses of rain clouds, through which at intervals
streamed the rays of the western sun, which, falling on the water,
covered its surface with gleams of dazzling brightness. Some portions
of the lovely scene seemed bathed in gold, only made more conspicuous
by the darker tints of deepest blue and purple. The play of light and
shade was continually changing, forming altogether a scene of tranquil
loveliness not easily to be forgotten. I should not like, however,
to live here alone. Every place to which the reputation of antiquity
attaches itself, has its guide and dealer in curiosities, although he
knows no more about them than the crows know about Sunday. The man who
accompanied me in my explorations came, as he said, from Mitylene, and
was educated enough to be able to quote the poems and rhapsodies of
Sappho. The owner of a neighbouring farm, here made his appearance, a
stately Turk, in frock-coat and boots, with a head of hair like that
of a plough-boy. We went together, about a quarter of an hour’s walk,
to see the “Queen’s Cave” (σπήλαιον τῆς ῥηγίνας) which was
upon his estate. This gentleman informed me, that until about ten years
previously it had been almost entirely filled up, but, that when the
French came to explore, he had had it opened. Nothing, however, was
found in it except a great stone slab, about five feet square, which
was leaning against one of the walls, and was covered with inscriptions
on both sides. The Frenchmen, after a great deal of trouble, succeeded
in getting it out. It was, however, so heavy that they broke it to
pieces, before taking it with them in their boat. Cesnola tells us
that on descending into the cave he found that it consisted of four
chambers, or tombs excavated one behind the other in the solid rock.
Each of the two first contained four graves; the third had fewer, and
in the last and smallest, there were none. “We found,” he continues,
“several other tombs upon the side of the hill, some of them open and
some of them filled up. My guide told me that before his time they
had been thoroughly ransacked, and their contents, which consisted of
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