Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
The same authority tells us the muleteers are as a class excellent
and trustworthy, even under the temptation of conveying large sums of
money from one town to the other. When a native is about to proceed
on a journey he goes to the khan, a kind of inn, and there selects a
mule to his liking, and bargains with the owner of it for a lump sum
for the entire trip, or at a rate of so much a day. The latter mode is
preferable, for should the mule prove unsuitable, the traveller would
be at liberty to change it on the road if he found a better. The former
method, however, is generally adopted by the natives for the sake of
economy. He appoints the hour at which he desires to start, and the
muleteer as a rule arrives at the house an hour or two later. A kind of
native saddle is placed on the back of the mule, called “stratouri,”
across which are hung, in such a manner as not to incommode the
traveller, two large canvas bags, which contain his private effects,
and provisions for the first day’s journey. Several coloured blankets
or quilts, according to the season, are then piled on the stratouri to
be used as a bed at night.
The muleteer, who acts also as guide, is mounted upon a small but
strong donkey in the same fashion as the traveller, and carries the
extra baggage of the latter, besides food for himself, provender for
both animals, and often several parcels intrusted for delivery to his
care. At first it seemed to me cruel to see such little animals so
overloaded, but I soon became convinced that the Cyprian donkey is
stronger, and resists the fatigue of a long journey, better than a mule.
When everything is in readiness for departure, the traveller is helped
to ascend to the top of his quilts, and two rusty stirrups attached to
the extremities of a rope are handed him, into which he introduces his
feet. By sitting upon the rope, he is enabled keep to his equilibrium;
once safely perched he opens a yellow cotton umbrella, lights his
cigarette, receives the blessings of his household, and starts upon his
journey.
The Cypriotes are in general a frugal people, and when travelling, can
accommodate themselves to almost every exigency. More than once during
my excursions in the island I have found on entering a small village,
some wealthy merchant of my acquaintance, seated cross-legged on the
threshold of a hut, with a straw tray, resembling the lid of a basket,
placed before him, on which were a few black olives, a hard piece of
brown bread, and some sour milk, apparently enjoying his repast. It is
no uncommon thing to find the muleteer seated opposite the merchant,
eating from the same dish, and drinking from the same jug, a glass
being in the interior of the island considered a useless luxury.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account