Those who are attracted to Whitchurch Down by reason of its golf
links, belonging to the Tavistock Club, will see one of the most
impressive old crosses of the moorland; and their sport may be
combined not only with the bracing air of a high altitude but with
fine views of Dartmoor and of east Cornwall. The beauty of the Walkham
River is continued to its junction with the Tavy near the disused
copper mine of the Virtuous Lady. Whitchurch proves its antiquity by
being the _Wicerce_ of Domesday. Its church, thus clearly dating from
before the Conquest, has the lovely screen rescued by the Earl of
Devon from the ill-advised restoration at Moreton Hampstead. North of
Peter Tavy, a charming village in the beautiful Tavy vale, is Whit
Tor, with perhaps the best walled encampment of the moorland. There
are other old-world relics, such as the Langstone menhir. And so we
arrive once more at Lydford.
Surely there can be few spots of such comparatively small size that so
teem with interest and fascination as Dartmoor. In the number of its
prehistoric remains it is only equalled by parts of Cornwall, and
their preservation is owing to thinness of modern population. We may
imagine that most of England was once scattered with similar traces of
dead peoples, but in most places these have been eradicated by
successive waves of population. Dartmoor has been left in solitude,
and though its few inhabitants have done their best to remove or
mutilate the immemorial monuments, enough have been overlooked to
furnish us with a wide treasure ground. But where the antiquarian will
come to measure and dig and conjecture, the artist, the poet, the
lover of nature will find many other things to allure. The sportsman
will also come here, especially the angler, who finds excellent trout,
though the fish are not often large. Perhaps happily, only the few
main roads are available for motor traffic, but during the summer
these are much frequented; there are also many excursion cars and
chars-à-bancs to the more popular beauty-spots, starting from places
like Moreton, Chagford, Bovey Tracey, or coming from towns far beyond
the moor borders. The cyclist who does not mind dismounting at times
has a wider area, and cycling on Dartmoor is not so bad as its
reputation. There are some really fine stretches of road; what the
rider needs is discrimination and good brakes. But he who truly wins
the freedom of the moors is the pedestrian--a species not quite
extinct, though discredited and often discomforted. He should come
here on what we may call the divine adventure, the quest of beauty;
and even on lonely Dartmoor he will find the human touch not absent.
[Illustration: A DARTMOOR STREAM]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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