After the Christian era we learn little or nothing of Dartmoor till
the time of the Plantagenets, though we can gather a good deal about
its border towns. The wild beasts that haunted its desolate recesses
brought it some repute as a hunting-ground, and it was not included in
King John's act of disafforestation. We must not be led by the term
Dartmoor Forest to suppose that the moors were ever covered with
woodland--certainly not within historic days; for long centuries they
can only have been an almost treeless waste, with patches of trees
like the surviving stunted oaks of Wistman's Wood. But the borders and
some of the river valleys are beautifully wooded.
It must be confessed that the rarest beauty of the moorland belongs to
its fringes, around what may be called the gateways of the moor; in
the interior there is the charm of broad expanse, the glorious colour
of heather, ling, and gorse, and occasionally a grand desolation of
mist and tempest that may almost strike dismay. A guidebook writer has
spoken of Dartmoor as "the quintessence of unlovely dreariness"; and
perhaps there is some justification for his words in the immediate
neighbourhood of Princetown, the solitary town of the moorland proper.
In size Princetown is only a village, with a population permanently
increased by the presence of about a thousand convicts and their
warders; and it may be feared that a majority of visitors to the
place, reaching it by train from Yelverton, are drawn by a curiosity
to see the prison. They are rewarded by little but a sight of the grim
bare walls. Lovers of the moor have never looked with favour either at
the prison or at the tortuous little railway line that climbs to it,
however much this line may be admired as a feat of engineering; but we
must accept the presence of the railway ungrudgingly, for it is a fine
convenience for all who wish to reach the central regions of Dartmoor.
The wise visitor comes to Princetown in order to get away from it as
soon as possible--to get to Two Bridges, and Crockern Tor, long the
open-air parliament-place of the tinners--and to find himself in a
tract of lonely country perhaps more thickly studded with immemorial
remains than any other in the kingdom. The prison itself is about 1500
feet above sea level; and Great Mis Tor, a mile or so to the north, is
1760 feet. It will be realized that if this and other tors rose sheer
from a low-lying plain, their height would be much more appreciable.
It was Tyrwhitt, Warden of the Stannaries, who suggested that a prison
should be built here, to receive the prisoners of war who were
crowding the seaports; and the work was begun in 1806. Tyrwhitt lived
at Tor Royal, where he entertained the Prince Regent; and tradition
suggests that the Prince brought his usual habits of gaiety and
dissipation when he thus visited the moorland. Americans as well as
Frenchmen suffered the dismal hospitality of the gaol here, as we are
reminded by one of Mr. Phillpotts's novels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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