Dawn in darkest AfricaHarris, John H. (John Hobbis)
History
Dawn in darkest Africa
Harris, John H. (John Hobbis)
Africa, West; Africa, West -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Africa, West; Slavery -- Africa, West
the British mind the sort of colonies the “matchless navy” of Great
Britain may be called upon one day to defend.
[Sidenote: CONTRACT LABOUR AND SLAVERY]
Certain apologists of the Portuguese are very fond of comparing the
British indentured labour system with labour conditions on the Angolan
mainland and the islands. The labour system of the East and West Indies
are by no means ideal, but there is a world of difference, not only in
the daily management of this labour, but fundamentally.
In San Thomé the contracted labourer from Angola is a slave: he calls
himself a slave, and the Mozambique free man holds him in contempt as a
slave; either he was captured, or purchased on the mainland with cash
by the plantation owners just as men purchase cattle or capture wild
animals. Every single slave with whom I spoke, both on the mainland and
on the islands, gave me the clearest account, replete with convincing
detail, of the manner in which he or she had been either kidnapped or
purchased. Not a few of the slaves had “changed hands” several times
before the ultimate sale to the planter.
THE SLAVE’S CASE
In the back streets of Angolan ports, on the highways of Lobito and
Benguella, and in the shady by-paths of Catumbella, the traveller may at
any time penetrate the secrets of the tragedies which attach themselves
to the souls of men and women who have lost their freedom. The same
tragedies but with attendant secrets darker still, are locked within the
breasts of the slaves on the Portuguese cocoa islands in the Gulf of
Guinea. There by the roadside, on the banks of crystal streams, up in the
cocoa roças, and along the valleys thick with cocoa-trees, the traveller
has abundant opportunities for penetrating the secrets of the miserable
slaves.
[Sidenote: THE VOICE OF THE SLAVE]
Behind the mountainous coast of Angola, the town of Novo Redondo hides
itself in a hollow, as if ashamed of its history, or perhaps so that its
traffic in human beings during past centuries might escape the attention
of watchful cruisers. There, amongst a group of slaves and freemen, I met
a woman with a story more eloquent than others because it was also so
recent, so vivid and so forceful. She had not been long on the coast, for
only a few months ago she had for the first time witnessed the Atlantic
breakers tossing themselves with their impetuous fury on that strip of
rocky shore. The hour was that of the mid-day rest, and the woman was
sitting sadly apart from the other labourers. A glance at her attitude,
coiffure and other characteristics rendered her a somewhat singular
figure in that group of serviçaes, still there was a familiarity which
surely could not be mistaken—somewhere in Central Africa those cicatrized
arms, that braided head, had a tribal home.
“True, white man, I have come from far; from the land of great rivers and
dark forests.”
“How were you enslaved?” I asked.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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