Dawn in darkest AfricaHarris, John H. (John Hobbis)
History
Dawn in darkest Africa
Harris, John H. (John Hobbis)
Africa, West; Africa, West -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Africa, West; Slavery -- Africa, West
Little remains in the social life of Africa as a result of the work of
the early Roman Catholic missionaries. The tribes have no settled church
organization based upon the devoted efforts of three centuries ago.
Ruins may be seen in several parts and extremely interesting ones too.
On the islands of San Thomé and Principe, we frequently saw the partial
structure of churches, one of which must have been erected very early
in the sixteenth century, for a tomb close to the chancel, grey with
age and moss grown, was dated 1542. If the colonists of San Thomé were
zealous slavers, they certainly gave much of their ill-gotten gain to the
erection of churches. Fragments of these edifices are lying about in the
tropical undergrowth and an examination will show that marble pillars,
façades, altars, even common stone, had been gathered from the four
corners of the earth to build ornate “Houses of God” on these isolated
rocks in the Gulf of Guinea. Visiting one of these ruins we were struck
by the pathetic reverence with which the natives regarded those crumbling
walls; the priest had long since died, and there was none to lead those
almost hopeless souls along the path of religious faith. Standing inside
those four walls, gazing at the broken altar and the creeper-clad walls,
we were forced to keep our heads covered, for the ruin had lost its roof
generations before, and the equatorial sun was pouring its direct rays
upon us. Directing a question to some of the natives standing near by, we
were amazed to find that they refused to answer; two or three times we
repeated our questions, but they all maintained immovable positions and
refused to utter a single word. A man close at my elbow then informed me
that no native could reply whilst the white man kept his hat on his head
in the House of God! The silent rebuke of those simple natives forced us
to leave the precincts of the old ruin and pass into the little chapel
which still remains more or less watertight. Into this place, not more
than ten feet square, the natives had moved the images of the Virgin
and Apostles, and in the centre of the room a native palm oil lamp sent
forth its unpleasant odour. This lamp was half African fetish and half
salvation to those natives, for their worship had degenerated into a sort
of corrupt Zoroastrianism, and the Alpha and Omega of their religion
seemed to be the uninterrupted burning of this light. They were most
insistent that since the foundation of the church, between 1500 and 1530,
the light had never been allowed to go out!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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