Dawn in darkest AfricaHarris, John H. (John Hobbis)
History
Dawn in darkest Africa
Harris, John H. (John Hobbis)
Africa, West; Africa, West -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Africa, West; Slavery -- Africa, West
And how they love a race! Let them but see a competitor ahead bound for
the same goal, and despite their long day’s paddle they will redouble
their strokes. Caution is thrown to the winds and the canoe springs in a
mad gallop, rocking to and fro, pitching and tossing against the current
until the rival ahead, scenting a race, enters the competition with keen
zest. At such times I have found all warnings are in vain. With a rapid
girding up of the loin cloths as the boats proceed, a rearranging of the
cargo, children, dogs, fowls, baggage and all—the race begins in real
earnest. With much shouting and good-natured banter the one or the other
will take advantage of every prospect of an up-current; now out again in
midstream to avoid a snag; a paddle breaks in the effort, but is quickly
discarded and another seized without lessening the speed—and on they go,
each determined to win or sink their rival. The boats ship water, but are
made to right themselves with marvellous ingenuity and then both stop
to bale out, while the paddlers exchange good-humoured threats, gibes,
curses and defiance.
On again they go with little advantage to either side, and the word is
passed for the “master stroke.” Madder than ever is the race; the white
man may shout but they pay no heed, for young manhood has lost all sense
of danger. At last the opportunity occurs for the final advantage for the
river must be crossed at yonder point. Often have I tried to avoid this
danger, proceeding first to command, then to plead, but in vain. I might
as effectively have tried to control a hurricane with a feather! To clear
the point with its snags, one canoe must fall behind or cross the rival’s
bows—to give up and fall back is impossible. The attempt is generally
made by the smaller boat to cross the bows of her more powerful rival and
though occasionally successful she is more often struck amidships and
disappears completely—canoe, paddlers and all!
A great shout goes up and the victors splash in to the rescue, seizing
the mats, baskets, provisions and sundries, which float off in every
direction. The crew, as much at home in the water as on land, come up
one by one and others dive to seize the stern of the sunken canoe. With
vigorous pulling and pushing, the water is swished out till she floats
again, and in the vanquished spring, again baling out the remaining water
with their feet, till it is once more fit for occupation, and every one
is prepared for the last lap of the journey. The men take their beating
well, enjoying the laugh against themselves. That night all sleep
together in a friendly fishing encampment, while the white man curls up
in his canoe, and listens to the merry paddlers as they recount with
evident enjoyment the story of their five-mile race.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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