Deadfalls and Snares: A Book of Instruction for Trappers About These and Other Home-Made TrapsHarding, A. R. (Arthur Robert)
General
Deadfalls and Snares: A Book of Instruction for Trappers About These and Other Home-Made Traps
Harding, A. R. (Arthur Robert)
Animal traps; Animal traps -- Juvenile literature
Some object to deadfalls because fox are seldom caught in them. It is
true that few fox are taken in deadfalls, although in the far North
some are, and especially Arctic and White fox.
The deadfall trapper, however, who gives care and attention to his
traps finds them fur takers. They can be built small for weasel or a
little larger for mink, marten and civet cat; or larger for opossum
and skunk; still heavier for coon and wild cat and even to a size
that kills bear.
Some trappers find the mink hard to catch. At some seasons they are
easy to take in deadfalls. Long in the '80's in five winters eight
mink were caught in one deadfall. The first winter one was caught;
second, two; third, three; fourth and fifth, each one.
If our memory serves us right, the trap was first built in the fall
of 1887, and was located on the bank about ten feet to the left of a
sycamore, which at that time was standing. There was a den under the
tree entering near the water, with an outlet on the bank only a few
feet from the trap, and near where the pen and bait were located.
This deadfall was built much like the illustration shown here. While
the fall was of hickory, not a vestige remained when looking at the
place in September, 1906.
The pen should be built strong and tight so that the animal will not
tear it to pieces and get at the bait from the rear. The "fall" or
top pole can be of any kind of wood, but hickory, oak, beech, maple,
and other heavy wood are all good. The pole should be heavy enough to
kill the animal without placing any weights on it. When building it
is a good idea to let the top pole extend about a couple of feet
beyond the pen. This will give more weight on the animal when the
trap falls.
[Illustration: A GOOD CATCHER.]
The two piece triggers may work hard, especially if the log used for
the fall has rough bark on. In this case it might be well to smooth
with your axe or hatchet. In setting with the two piece trigger make
them out of as hard wood as can be found. The long piece can be
slightly flattened on the under side, or the side on which the upper
end of the upright or prop sets. The prop should be cut square on the
lower end while the upper end might be a little rounding, as this
will tend to make the top or bait trigger slip off easier.
In setting raise up the top pole and hold in position with the knee.
This gives both hands free to adjust the triggers. When you think you
have them right, gradually let the weight off your knee and then try
the trigger. You will soon learn about how they are to be set.
The bait should be tied on or the bait trigger may have a prong on to
hold the bait. If you find the bait gone and the trap still up the
chances are that it was set too hard and the animal stole the bait.
Of late years in some sections, mice have been very troublesome,
eating the bait. In other places birds are bait stealers, and for
this reason it is best to set traps rather hard to throw.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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