Deadfalls and Snares: A Book of Instruction for Trappers About These and Other Home-Made TrapsHarding, A. R. (Arthur Robert)
General
Deadfalls and Snares: A Book of Instruction for Trappers About These and Other Home-Made Traps
Harding, A. R. (Arthur Robert)
Animal traps; Animal traps -- Juvenile literature
The board stretcher should be made of some thin material. Prepare a
board of bass wood or some other light material, two feet three
inches long, three inches and a half wide at one end, and two inches
and an eighth at the other, and three-eighths of an inch thick.
Chamfer it from the center to the sides almost to an edge. Round and
chamfer the small end about an inch upon the sides. Split the board
through the center with a knife or saw, finally prepare a wedge of
the same length and thickness, one inch wide at the large end, and
taper to a blunt point. This is a stretcher suitable for a mink, or a
marten.
Two large sizes with similar proportions are required for the large
animals, the largest size suitable for the full grown otter and wolf,
should be five feet and a half long, seven inches wide at the large
end when fully spread by the wedge, and six inches at the small end.
An intermediate size is required for the fisher, raccoon, fox and
some other animals, the proportions of which can be easily figured
out.
These stretchers require that the skin of the animal should not be
ripped through the belly, but should be stripped off whole. Peel the
skin from the body by drawing it over itself, leaving the fur inward.
In this condition the skin should be drawn on to the split board
(with the back on one side and the belly on the other), to its utmost
length, and fastened with tacks, and then the wedge should be driven
between the two halves. Finally, make all fast by a tack at the root
of the tail, and another on the opposite side. The skin is then
stretched to its utmost capacity and it may be hung away to dry.
* * *
Not alone the skulls of the larger animals, but the skulls of any
game, the skeleton of any bird, or fish, has a ready market, provided
such specimens are properly cleaned, and in perfect condition.
However, the hunter or trapper must bear in mind the fact that it is
the perfect specimen that is in demand, and that a bruise on the bone
literally spoils it for the curator.
If you will look carefully at any skull, you will notice that some of
the bones are very thin and frail, almost like a spider web. These
fine bones must be preserved if they are to be of any value to the
Comparative Anatomist, and boiling or scraping simply ruins them. So
much for the explanation. Now the method of cleaning, is by "rotting"
rather than scraping or boiling. Take the skull (or whole head) and
fix it solid in some can or jar, then fill it, or cover with water
and put away for three or four weeks. At the end of that time, pour
off the water and the bulk of the flesh will go too. Fill in with
clear water again, and repeat as often as necessary. I have found
that twice will do the work, and leave the bone in good condition.
There is a market for most animal skulls, if not damaged, and it may
pay to preserve all. In the Hunter-Trader-Trapper, published at
Columbus, Ohio, usually will be found advertisements of parties who
buy them.
* * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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