Descriptive Pamphlet of the Richmond Mill Furnishing Works: All sizes of mill stones and complete grinding and bolting combined husk or portable flouring mills, portable corn and feed mills; smut and separating machines; zigzag and oat separators, dustless separators, warehouse separators, water wheels; mill shafting; pulleys; spur and bevel, iron and core, gearing....Richmond Mill Furnishing Works
Philosophy
Descriptive Pamphlet of the Richmond Mill Furnishing Works: All sizes of mill stones and complete grinding and bolting combined husk or portable flouring mills, portable corn and feed mills; smut and separating machines; zigzag and oat separators, dustless separators, warehouse separators, water wheels; mill shafting; pulleys; spur and bevel, iron and core, gearing....
Richmond Mill Furnishing Works
Flour industry -- Equipment and supplies -- Catalogs; Milling machinery -- Catalogs; Mills and mill-work -- Equipment and supplies -- Catalogs; Nordyke, Marmon & Company -- Catalogs
Our three and three and a half feet mills are often found grinding
faster than the four feet sizes of the old style of mills, at the same
time doing as good and better work. These are facts, and the reasons why
are simply because the stones are run at a greater speed, while the
furrows are shaped to avoid heating, and properly drafted to distribute
the grain evenly over the grinding surfaces. Also, much is owing to a
good selection of the burr stock of which the stones are made. We
conclude this subject by reference to some who have given us their
views, carefully expressed in writing, and here published for the
benefit of all those interested in milling.
Keeping in Order.
The face of the bed stone must be kept level and the spindle in perfect
tram with it. To tram, take off the hoop and runner stone, and if a
_Pulley Mill_, put on the belt the same as when grinding; then place on
the spindle a wooden arm with a hole in one end to fit tight on the
upper end of spindle, so that it will traverse the face of the bed
stone, having before made a small hole through the projecting end to
receive a quill or piece of whale-bone to trace the surface of the
bed-stone about two inches in from its skirt. On turning the spindle, it
can now be readily seen which way the step is to be moved in order to
throw the spindle in tram; if it is properly in tram, the quill will
traverse the bed-stone evenly around its face. To tram our _geared
mills_, the toe of the spindle must _not be moved out of line_ with the
shaft holding the driving gear wheel; the proper way is to tram it in
the bush, which is provided with suitable keys. However, when the toe of
the spindle or step is required to be moved length-ways of this shaft,
no bad results will follow, provided the cogs are all the time in proper
depth--even on their back or large end, and not too deep in gear. The
spindles of our mills are not apt to get out of tram, but in all mills
they should be closely watched and frequently tried in this particular.
When the _spindle is in perfect tram_, and the _runner in balance_, the
_burrs will not wear out of face_, but the reverse, they will naturally
_wear in face_. The followers should not be forced too hard against the
spindle by the wedges in the iron bush, as it will make the spindle
heat.
The space under the leather, on top of the bush, should be well supplied
with tallow rolled up in a woolen cloth and laid immediately around the
spindle. The oil cup in the bush should be supplied with good sperm or
lard oil every time the burrs are taken up. Place some candle-wick in
this cup, with one end against (_not around_) the spindle. This keeps
the spindle supplied with a continual flow of oil in addition to the
tallow. Oil the spindle step with good sperm or lard oil, clean out once
a month, and keep out dirt.
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