This book does not pretend to include every district. I have merely passed through a great part of the county, stopping here at an old church with interesting monuments, there at a small town whose share in local history--in some instances, in the country's history--is apt to be forgotten, or at a manor-house which should be remembered for its association with one of the many 'worthies' who, as Prince says--with the true impartiality of a West-countryman in regard to his own county--form 'an illustrious troop of heroes, as no other county in the kingdom, no other kingdom (in so small a tract) in Europe, in all respects, is able to match, much less excel.' From the 'Tale of Two Swannes,' a view of the banks of the River Lea, published in 1590, I have ventured to borrow the verses that close an address 'To the Reader': 'To tell a Tale, and tell the Trueth withall, To write of waters, and with them of land, To tell of Rivers, where they rise and fall, To tell where Cities, Townes, and Castles stand, To tell their names, both old and newe, With other things that be most true, 'Argues a Tale that tendeth to some good, Argues a Tale that hath in it some reason, Argues a Tale, if it be understood, As looke the like, and you shall find it geason. If, when you reade, you find it so, Commend the worke and let it goe.' Contents Sonnet by Henry Newbolt _page_ v Preface vii _Chap._ I. Exeter 1 II. The Exe 13 III. The Otter and the Axe 47 IV. Dartmoor 71 V. The Teign 89 VI. Torbay 106 VII. The Dart 119 VIII. Kingsbridge, Salcombe, and the South Hams 141 IX. The Three Towns 155 X. The Tamar and the Tavy 179 XI. The Taw and the Torridge 201 XII. Lundy, Lynmouth, and the Borders of Exmoor 244 XIII. Castles and Country-Houses 272 List of authorities consulted 315 Index 317 Illustrations The Guildhall, Exeter _Frontispiece_ Exeter from Exwick _To face page_ 2 Exeter Cathedral 5 The Exe: Tiverton 13