Between the two Devonian areas, and occupying a large part of the
centre of the county, are the carboniferous or coal-bearing measures,
containing, however, not true coal but anthracite, which has more carbon
in it than is found in ordinary coal; and these beds are perhaps more
often known as Culm, from the Welsh _cwlwm_, a knot, in allusion to
the fragmentary condition in which the mineral is frequently found.
Anthracite, which elsewhere and especially in South Wales is a most
valuable fuel, is here clayey and impure, and in thin seams. It is
worked to a small extent, to be ground and made into a paint called
Bideford Black. The Culm measures consist of grits, shales, and
sandstones, with beds of chert and limestone containing fossil plants
and other forms of marine life. Fish are few, only two species having
been identified. The anthracite occurs in the middle Culm, and there are
other remains of plants in both the middle and upper beds. The upper
Culm is well seen on the coast near Clovelly and by the river Torridge,
where it has been bent by volcanic upheaval into curious and beautiful
curves. These measures, in general, are characterised by many outcrops
of volcanic rock, some of which were probably contemporary, that is to
say, they were poured out while the culm was in process of formation;
while others are intrusive, or were forced up through the strata after
these had been solidified into rock. These igneous rocks are found in
great variety.
[Illustration: A smoothly-weathered granite Tor, Dartmoor]
By far the most important and striking of these volcanic formations
is the great granite mass of Dartmoor, one of the most prominent
features of the county, measuring 225 square miles in extent, and
constituting the largest granitic area in England. Granite is a volcanic
rock, formed, it has been suggested, by fusion at a great depth and
under great pressure, and consisting in the main of three minerals,
quartz, felspar, and mica. That of Dartmoor is, on the whole, grey and
coarse-grained, but it varies a good deal in colour, fineness, and
composition. Its real origin is obscure. It has been assigned by various
experts to various periods, and it has been called "the sphinx of Devon
geology." There can, however, be no doubt about the great disturbance
which has been caused in the county by upheaval and by the intrusion of
melted rock, which has bent, broken, and twisted previously-existing
formations in a most extraordinary manner, the results of which are well
seen in the picturesque scenery of the Start, Prawle Point, and Bolt
Head. Lundy, which is twelve miles from the nearest point of Devonshire
mainland, is all granite, except for a small part of its south end,
which is Millstone Grit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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