Dickensian Inns & TavernsMatz, B. W. (Bertram Waldrom)
History
Dickensian Inns & Taverns
Matz, B. W. (Bertram Waldrom)
Dickens, Charles, 1812-1870 -- Settings; Taverns (Inns) -- England
Dickens makes no mention of the inn where this meeting took place, but H.
Snowden Ward identified it as the old George Hotel in the High Street. We
cannot vouch for the accuracy of this, although we are not inclined to
dispute it. It may have been the inn Dickens had in his mind's eye, but it
must have been a recollection of an earlier visit to Salisbury, for at the
time he was writing _Martin Chuzzlewit_ the George had lost its licence
and would have been unable to supply the "jug of most stupendous Wiltshire
beer" or the bowl of hot strong punch with which Tom Pinch and Martin
regaled themselves. It may be the waiter sent for it as is done to-day.
However, if the assumption that this is the tavern where the two met draws
visitors to it, there can be no regrets, for it is surely one of the most
ancient hostelries in the country. It dates back to 1320 and retains its
fine Gothic arches of oak, its timbered roofs and ceilings, its massive
oak supports to the cross-beams in several rooms, its splendid example of
an oak Jacobean staircase, its four-poster bedsteads, old fire-places, and
ancient furniture. In one of the rooms there is also a portion of a very
ancient wall of Roman bricks in herringbone work, where in 1869 were
found Roman coins, some of which are to be seen in the hotel to-day.
[Illustration: THE GEORGE INN, SALISBURY
_Photograph by T. W. Tyrell_]
It is no longer a coaching inn. The court-yard where the strolling players
of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries gave their dramatic
performances is now the garden, and the entrance for the coaches has been
narrowed to an ordinary hotel entrance. In doing this, the rooms on each
side were widened, and in this process the massive rough-hewn oaks that
support the cross-beams of the ceilings, and which at one time formed part
of the walls, became isolated, and stand now like trees growing out of the
earth.
Such an ancient inn naturally has many historic stories and traditions
associated with it, and these are not overlooked by the present proprietor
in a little brochure available to visitors. Shakespeare, we are informed,
acted in its court-yard, Oliver Cromwell slept in the inn when passing
through the city to join his army on the 17th October, 1645, whilst Samuel
Pepys makes mention of it in his diary where he records his welcome to a
silk bed and a very good diet.
This inn is referred to again in Chapter XXXI, when Tom Pinch, having
parted from Mr. Pecksniff, tramped on foot to Salisbury and "went to the
inn where he had waited for Martin," and ordered a bed, which, we are told
"was a low four-poster shelving downward in the centre like a trough." He
slept two nights at the inn before starting on his ride to London, so
graphically described by Dickens, meeting Mrs. Lupin at the finger-posts
where she had brought the box of good things which he shared with the
coachman on the journey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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