Continuing their walk to London, the Artful Dodger and Oliver gradually reached Islington, and entered the City together. Islington in days gone by was a starting point for the mail-coaches going to the north, and as a consequence was famous for its old inns. Perhaps the most famous, particularly from the antiquarian standpoint, was the old Queen's Head, a perfect specimen of ancient domestic architecture, which was destroyed in 1829. Another was, of course, the Angel; but the house bearing that name to-day can claim none of the romance or attractiveness of its ancient predecessor, and has recently been modernised on the lines adopted by a very modern firm of caterers. But the Angel of its palmy days was well-known to Dickens, and, although he does not make it the scene of any prominent incident in his books, it has mention in _Oliver Twist_ in the chapter describing Oliver's trudge to London. It was nearly eleven o'clock when he and the Artful Dodger reached the turnpike at Islington. They then crossed from the Angel into St. John's Road, on their way to the house near Field Lane, where Oliver was dragged in and the door closed behind him. [Illustration: THE RED LION, BARNET _Photograph by T. W. Tyrrell_] The inn is mentioned again in the same book on the occasion when Noah Claypole and Charlotte traversed the same road. "Mr. Claypole," we read, "went on, without halting, until he arrived at the Angel, at Islington, where he wisely judged, from the crowd of passengers and number of vehicles, that London began in earnest." He, too, led the way into St. John's Road. The Angel has been a London landmark for over two centuries. There have been at least three houses of the same name, but the one Dickens knew and referred to was apparently that built after the destruction in 1819 of the original. In those days, it was the first halting-place, after leaving London, of coaches bound along the Holyhead and Great North Roads. The original house presented the usual features of a large old country inn, and "the inn yard, approached by a gateway in the centre, was nearly a quadrangle, with double galleries, supported by plain columns and carved pilasters, with caryatides and other figures." Now, as we have said, it is merely a very ordinary, everyday modern refreshment house.