Mexico -- History -- 1910-1946; Mexico City (Mexico) -- Social life and customs
Afterward I went to the cemetery adjoining the church, known as that
of the Hombres Ilustres, where a somnolent custodian let me in. The
most prominent tomb is that of Juarez, dating from somewhere in the
eighties. He is represented with his head lying in the lap of a weeping
woman, symbolic of the sorrows of the nation (and tears enough to make
a river have been shed by women here, since then). I asked myself, by
his tomb, what has it availed to scatter the treasures of the church?
All are poorer and none, alas, the wiser.
Guerrero, of the little flower-planted plaza, Comonfort, Zaragoza,
lie near, all executed by the hand of some one momentarily stronger.
Generals Mejía and Miramon, the companions in death of Maximilian[40]
on the fatal morning of June 19, 1867, repose here too.
In Mexico it is difficult to live for your country without the certain
prospect of dying for it, but I must confess that to me the readiness
with which the men of Mexico give up their lives is impressive and
affecting. It is at least removed from the conventionalities of
other types of political men, where mostly each one intends to live
comfortably by as well as for his country, until he dies of disease, or
_Anno Domini_.
Inspired by the wonted passion for moving things, a huge new panthéon
is being constructed near by, and some day all these tired bones must
make another journey. I think the cemetery as it is would make a good
school-room for the study of the history of Mexico since she began her
struggle for "independence."
Later we went out to the Country Club, where there was a luncheon
of the usual contingent, and spent the afternoon following various
friendly golfing squads over the beauteous links, beginning with the
ambassador, Mr. Parry, Mr. McCarthy, and N. The volcanoes, now in
one aspect, now in another of their beauty, were as gracious to the
foreigner as to the _indigène_. The short, wiry grass, something like
the tough grass of Scotland, made the most luxurious of carpets as we
strolled along, though now it is dried to the palest yellow--the greens
kept green only by exhaustive efforts--a lot of Yankee push behind the
hand that wields the hose. At sunset we drove home through a world of
sifted gold. Such are the days of Mexico.
[39] This is the prince who was taken by Cortés on his
Honduras expedition with the kings of Texcoco and Tacuba.
As punishment for plotting to escape they were hanged head
downward from a tree in the wilderness. Humboldt saw this
represented in a hieroglyphic painting in the convent of San
Felipe Neri, and even Bernal Diaz relates that the companions
in arms of Cortés were "much shocked" at the occurrence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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