Balls at the German Legation and at Madame Page 310 Simon's--Necaxa--A strange, gorge-like world of heat and light--Mexican time-tables--The French trail XXVII A luncheon for Gustavo Madero--Celebrating the _Grito_ at Page 316 the Palace--The President's brother explains his philosophy--Hacienda of San Cristobal--A typical Mexican Sunday dinner XXVIII Good-by to Mexico, and a special farewell to Madame Page 333 Madero--Vera Cruz--Mexico in perspective ILLUSTRATIONS HILLSIDE HOUSES AND CHURCH TOWERS IN THE Frontispiece ZAPATISTA COUNTRY THE REVOLUTIONARY CAMP, MAY 5, 1911 Facing p. 10 (In front, Francisco I. Madero, behind him, José Marcia Suarez. Next him, Gustavo Madero. At left front, Abram Gonsalez. All are dead) FRANCISCO I. MADERO " 24 (From a photograph taken in 1911) MADERO AND OROZCO IN 1911--MADERO AT THE " 34 LEFT MEXICAN WOMEN SELLING TORTILLAS " 42 NELSON O'SHAUGHNESSY " 46 (Secretary of the American Embassy, 1911-1912) PAUL LEFAIVRE " 46 (French Minister to Mexico, 1911) FRANCISCO LEON DE LA BARRA " 46 (President _ad interim_ of the Mexican Republic between Diaz and Madero) A ROAD-SIDE SHRINE " 56 VON HINTZE, GERMAN MINISTER TO MEXICO (1911 " 74 to 1914) MEXICAN WOMEN WATER-CARRIERS " 88 A TYPICAL GROUP OF CORN-SELLERS " 108 ELIM O'SHAUGHNESSY, MEXICO, JUNE, 1911 " 134 MADAME LEFAIVRE, WIFE OF THE FRENCH MINISTER " 134 TO MEXICO, 1911 XOCHIMILCO " 154 BOATS ON THE VIGA CANAL " 200 AT EL DESIERTO, APRIL 29, 1912 (Mrs. O'Shaughnessy and Elim in the foreground) " 234 LUNCHEON AT THE VILLA DES ROSES " 234 (In front row, left to right, Mr. de " 234 Vilaine, Mlle. de Tréville, Ambassador Wilson, Madame Lefaivre, Mr. J. B. Potter, Mr. Rieloff (German Consul-general), Mrs. Nelson O'Shaughnessy, Von Hintze, Mr. Kilvert, Mr. Seger) A BEAUTIFUL OLD MEXICAN CHURCH " 262 MEXICAN NUNS GOING TO MASS " 304 FOREWORD