Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
surrounded, and in the embrace of friends. Hussein Bey and Sheikh Nasr,
with the Cawals and Yezidi elders, had ridden nearly forty miles through
the night to meet and escort me, if needful, to Mosul! Their delight at
seeing us knew no bounds; nor was I less touched by a display of gratitude
and good feeling, equally unexpected and sincere.
They rode with us as far as Tel Eskoff, where the danger from the Arabs
ceased; and I was now once more with old friends. In the afternoon, as we
rode towards Tel Kef, I left the high road with Hormuzd to drink water at
some Arab tents. As we approached we were greeted with exclamations of
joy, and were soon in the midst of a crowd of men and women, kissing our
knees, and exhibiting other tokens of welcome. They were Jebours, who had
been employed in the excavations. Hearing that we were again going to dig
after old stones, they at once set about striking their tents to join us
at Mosul or Nimroud.
As we neared Tel Kef we found groups of my old superintendents and workmen
by the roadside. There were fat Toma, Mansour, Behnan, and Hannah, joyful
at meeting me once more, and at the prospect of fresh service. In the
village we found Mr. Rassam (the vice-consul) and Khodja Toma, his
dragoman, who had made ready the feast for us at the house of the Chaldæan
bishop. Next morning, as we rode the three last hours of our journey, we
met fresh groups of familiar faces. Then as we ascend an eminence midway,
walls, towers, minarets, and domes rise boldly from the margin of the
broad river, cheating us into the belief, too soon to be dispelled, that
Mosul is still a not unworthy representative of the great Nineveh. As we
draw near, the long line of lofty mounds, the only remains of mighty
bulwarks and spacious gates, detach themselves from the low undulating
hills; now the vast mound of Kouyunjik overtops the surrounding heaps:
then above it peers the white cone of the tomb of the prophet Jonah; many
other well-remembered spots follow in rapid succession; but we cannot
linger. Hastening over the creaking bridge of boats, we force our way
through the crowded bazars, and alight at the house I had left two years
ago. Old servants take their places as a matter of course, and, uninvited,
pursue their regular occupations as if they had never been interrupted.
Indeed it seemed as if we had but returned from a summer's ride: two years
had passed away like a dream.
I may in this place add a few words on part of the route pursued by
Xenophon and the Ten Thousand during their memorable retreat, the
identification of which had been one of my principal objects during our
journey. I have, in the course of my narrative, already pointed out one
or two spots signalled by remarkable events on their march.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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