Discoveries in Australia, Volume 2: Discoveries in Australia; with an Account of the Coasts and Rivers; Explored and Surveyed During the Voyage of H.M.S. Beagle, in The; Years 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43. By Command of the Lords Commissioners; Of the Admiralty. Also a Narrative of Captain Owen Stanley's Visits; To the Islands in the Arafura SeaStokes, John Lort
History
Discoveries in Australia, Volume 2: Discoveries in Australia; with an Account of the Coasts and Rivers; Explored and Surveyed During the Voyage of H.M.S. Beagle, in The; Years 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43. By Command of the Lords Commissioners; Of the Admiralty. Also a Narrative of Captain Owen Stanley's Visits; To the Islands in the Arafura Sea
Stokes, John Lort
Australia -- Description and travel; Australia -- Discovery and exploration; Natural history -- Australia
Anxious to trace further the course of the river, Captain Wickham and
myself ascended the top of a neighbouring hill before early dawn. The
view which presented itself when the day broke, was fraught with every
charm of novelty. A rapid stream passing between barren rocky heights,
here stealing along in calm silence, there eddying and boiling as it
swept past, lay at our feet. By a sudden bend two miles east of where we
stood, it was hid from our view; the ranges overlapping, however, still
pointed out the further course of the Victoria. The boat lay in the mouth
of a creek, which communicating with another four miles further down,
formed an island on the eastern side of the river, which we called
Entrance Isle.
The formation of this part was a sandstone of a reddish hue, and in a
state of decomposition. A wiry grass and the never-failing eucalyptus
were sparingly scattered over the face of the country, which round the
entrance had a most unpromising and dreary appearance, showing at a
glance its utterly sterile character.
EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER.
Taking a hasty breakfast, we pulled up the river; the tortuous nature of
the first reaches, changing their directions suddenly from north to
east-south-east with a depth of seventeen and twenty fathoms, produces
violent eddies and whirlpools. Passing these, a splendid sheet of water
lay before us, trending south-east by south, as far as the eye could
reach from the boat, and more than a mile wide. In the first part of this
we had a few shoal casts of the lead, but afterwards the depth was eight
and ten fathoms, it being near low-water. In order to catch a glance at
what was beyond, and to spell the oars, we landed at a point on the east
side, from which Endeavour Hill bore West 1/2 South three miles. Here the
river, by taking a slight turn more to the southward, was again lost
sight of. We were sorry to perceive that it was much occupied by shoals,
that showed themselves at this time of tide. The first began five miles
beyond our station, commencing from abreast of a rugged ridge, on the
west bank. The singular manner in which the blocks of sandstone were
strewed over this height, caused it to bear a strong resemblance to old
ruins. The appearance of the country had not as yet improved, though the
sandstone had lost that reddish hue we had noticed in the morning, while
preserving the very marked dip to the south-east.
Continuing we found the change in the direction of the river very slight,
and at the end of sixteen miles it suddenly turned off to the eastward,
which I was sorry to find, as its diverging from its original
south-easterly direction, appeared likely to disappoint our expectation
that the Victoria would prove a highroad to the interior of the
continent. The width had hitherto been almost two miles, but there was
not sufficient depth to give us any hope of bringing the ship up thus
far.
APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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