Discoveries in Egypt, Ethiopia and the peninsula of Sinai, in the years 1842-1845, during the mission sent out by his majesty, Frederick William IV of Prussia.Lepsius, Richard
History
Discoveries in Egypt, Ethiopia and the peninsula of Sinai, in the years 1842-1845, during the mission sent out by his majesty, Frederick William IV of Prussia.
Towards morning the rain had ceased, and had turned into a thick fog,
which forming together into thick clouds, appeared sometimes to be cut
by the prominent mountains of the lofty Libanon, and sometimes with its
phantom-like play, with the light of the morning sun occasionally
breaking through upon the nearer and farther woody hills and
mountain-tops, perfectly delighted us. When we came to the first
height, which is divided from the principal chain by a shallow valley,
we had suddenly an indescribably beautiful and astonishing view over the
whole of the mountain range of Libanon, which rose up before us, its
whole length and down a considerable distance, covered with fresh
shining snow; a true Alpine country in its most magnificent features,
which towers majestically over this land blessed with eternal spring,
but now so shamefully oppressed by its Turkish enemies. I enjoyed most
fully this uncommon sight, which aroused in my heart a true native joy,
and I tried to retain within me this clear pure light. Before me I drove
my little Egyptian horse, who had lost his rider at Bâlbek, and who
carried on his back the small possessions he had left; I thought then,
how I had rejoiced a few days before, at the idea of the good Ibrahim’s
astonishment, when he should traverse with us the snowy region of
Libanon. The ass did not appear to be much pleased with the snow-heaps
that we had to ride through; he often stood quite astonished in the
middle of the snow, and no doubt took it all for salt, the white soft
fields of which he had already known by the Red Sea and elsewhere. We
rode zigzag along the immensely steep precipice seven to eight thousand
feet high, which is here not rocky, but covered with earth, and
terminates in a sharp brow. “El hamdu l’illah!” cried the old guide,
when we had reached the top; and, “Salâm, salâm,” sounded in chorus. We
had reached almost the highest point of Libanon, but the view over land
and sea was unfortunately hidden from us by clouds and fog, although
the blue sky was above our heads. After a short ride down from the top,
our guide showed us at our feet, in a large level inlet of the
mountains, the ancient and renowned forest of cedars, out of which King
Hiram sent the great stems to Solomon to build the temple; it appeared
from above as small as a garden. It had been considered for a length of
time as the remains of this forest, till, in later times, in a northern
part of Libanon, other forests of cedars have been discovered. We soon
lost sight of the cedars as we descended lower into the clouds, which
cut off all view from us. Suddenly the dark shadows of these giant trees
appeared in close rows before us, out of the great masses of fog, like
spirits of the mountains. We rode to the chapel of the hermit, who has
usually a good glass of Libanon wine to put before a stranger, but we
found it shut up; just then the clouds broke into a regular
straight-down rain, from which the needle-like roofs of the proud cedars
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