Discoveries in Egypt, Ethiopia and the peninsula of Sinai, in the years 1842-1845, during the mission sent out by his majesty, Frederick William IV of Prussia.Lepsius, Richard
History
Discoveries in Egypt, Ethiopia and the peninsula of Sinai, in the years 1842-1845, during the mission sent out by his majesty, Frederick William IV of Prussia.
afforded us but little shelter. I found a cedar-apple hanging low enough
for me to break off, and to carry with me as a token of remembrance.
Some of these stems are forty feet in circumference, and ninety feet
high; and as it is supposed that a cedar of a hundred years old will
only be half a foot in diameter, so must these be reckoned three
thousand years old, which would reach back to the time of Solomon. The
rain increased, and we had yet several thousand feet to descend to the
nearest village, Bsherreh. The lower we came, the more slippery and
dangerous became the narrow, sometimes rocky, sometimes soft, footway,
which leads along the steep precipice over a yawning abyss down to the
right. At a bend in a corner of a rock, we at last caught sight of our
desired night-quarters, the rich, pleasant, and large village of
Bsherreh, which gives its name to the whole district, and is well known
on account of its strong and influential, but wild and ungovernable, and
often cruel inhabitants.
The rain had abated; the white houses with their flat roofs, the number
of silver poplars, plane-trees, and cedars, which rose up among them
either singly or in rows, formed one above another a semi-circle on a
hill projecting from the right hand precipice, and appeared, as they
shone with the rain-drops, as if they were just out of a fresh bath.
Nothing was moving in the village; it appeared as if everything was dead
in it; I rode on along a narrow path by the wall of a vineyard, with our
old guide, before the rest. Suddenly, at a bend of the road, a strong
voice called to us, and as I looked over the vineyard-terrace, of about
the height of a man, I saw to my great surprise, twenty guns pointed
towards me and the guide. The guide let the bridle of his horse fall,
and raised his hands towards heaven, and cried out to the people. I
immediately threw back the hood of my cloak, to show the people my
European hat, and to prove to them who we were. When they saw that there
were but few of us, and that we made no attempt to defend ourselves,
they came in hundreds from behind the trees, surrounded us, and for a
long time would not believe that we were not disguised soldiers. Some
threw sticks down upon our horses from the terraces, while I was
endeavouring to explain who we were to those nearest to me. Others
understood the mistake sooner, and came down to the street, and took
hold of the bridle of my horse. At last, a boy of about fourteen, with a
frank countenance, a beautiful forehead, and red fresh cheeks, pressed
through the crowd, and called out in Italian that we should not fear, it
was all a mistake, we were their friends, and we had only to ride and
dismount at his brother’s house. Some violent people accompanied us
still, and cried out to us from the walls with the most angry gestures;
while the great crowd were already satisfied, and raised a deafening
shout of joy, fired their guns into the air, and led us in triumph to
the village.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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