Diversions of a NaturalistLankester, E. Ray (Edwin Ray), Sir
History
Diversions of a Naturalist
Lankester, E. Ray (Edwin Ray), Sir
Natural history
A very important and interesting thing about "beaches" is the way in
which the pebbles of which they consist are assorted in sizes. Suppose
that one prepares a trough some two or three yards long and twelve
inches deep, and lets it fill with water from a constantly running tap,
tilting it slightly so that the water will overflow and run away at the
end farthest from the tap. Then if one drops into the trough near the
tap handful after handful of coarse sand and small stones of varied
sizes, they will be carried along by the stream, and the more rapid and
voluminous the stream the farther they will be carried. But they will
eventually sink to the bottom of the trough, the bigger pieces first,
then the medium-sized, then the small, and the smaller in order, as the
current carries them along, so that one gets a separation and sorting
of the solid particles according to size, a very fine sediment being
deposited last of all at the far end of the trough. The waves of the
sea are continually stirring up and assorting the constituents of the
beach in this way. Usually the largest pebbles are thrown up farthest
by the advancing waves, and dropped soonest by the backward suck of
the retreating water, so that one generally finds a predominance of
big pebbles at the top of the beach. But on the flat shore of firm
ripple-marked sand lying lower down than the sloping "beach" and only
exposed at quite "low tide," one often finds very big pebbles of eight
or nine pounds weight scattered here and there and little rubbed or
rounded. They have gradually moved down the sloping beach and are too
heavy to be thrown back again by the waves of the shallow sea which
flows over the flat shores characteristic of much of our south-eastern
and southern coast. On some parts of the coast huge banks, consisting
exclusively of enormous pebbles as big as a quartern loaf, are piled
up by the waves, forming a great ridge often miles in length, as at
the celebrated Chesil pebble bank near Weymouth, and at Westward Ho!
in North Devon. The presence of these specially large pebbles is due
to the special character of the rocks which are broken up by the sea
to form them, and to the specially powerful wave-compelling winds and
tidal currents at the parts of the coast where they are produced.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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