Donahoe's Magazine, Volume 15, No. 2, February 1886Various
History
Donahoe's Magazine, Volume 15, No. 2, February 1886
Various
Periodicals
On embarking at the custom-house, an unpretending wooden structure, our
luggage was carefully overhauled by a courteous officer, attired in
spotless, light-blue linen. Passing through the building I emerged on
the street where crowds of negroes, Cuban and foreigners were engaged in
smoking, chatting, and watching the newly-arrived travellers. Numerous
coaches were drawn up in this neighborhood, and a person could visit any
part of the city in one of them for a trifling sum. The Hotel de Europa,
where I intended to stay, was only a few minutes' walk from the
custom-house, and was delightfully situated on the Plaza de St.
Francisco, facing the bay.
The first sight of Havana reveals to the United States visitor, who
never saw a Spanish city, a style of architecture, habits and scenes
entirely characteristic of Spain. The streets through which I passed
were but wide enough for one vehicle; the sidewalks could only
accommodate one foot passenger, and the houses, usually of one story,
were built of stone as thick, solid and gloomy looking as fortresses. On
my way I noticed that the windows had no glass, but were as large as
doors, fortified within by iron bars like those of a prison, and
additionally defended by heavy, wooden shutters generally painted green.
The shops were on a level with the pavement, and their rich and rare
collection of goods were all exposed to the view of the public. Awnings
now and then extended overhead across the street. Now some darkies and
Chinamen moved along bearing big burthens on their heads, and announcing
their wares in loud tones in the Spanish language. These were followed
by what appeared to me to be mysterious moving stalks of corn. As the
latter came nearer, the heads and legs of donkeys were seen amidst the
green mass. Then came a Cuban chicken vender from the country, with a
great big hat and blue shirt, leading his mule by the reins, while the
panniers on each side of the animal's back were filled with live fowl.
Immense wagons, laden with hogsheads of sugar and molasses, rattled over
the rough pavements as they were drawn by huge oxen, that were steered
by stout ropes, which were cruelly passed through their nostrils. I was
not a little surprised to see three or four cows walking silently on and
stopping at the doors of the houses to be milked before the public.
Customers need have no fears that any adulteration could take place on
such occasions, as the liquid comes from the pure and natural fountain
right before their eyes. Two old sailors, each minus an arm, were
singing patriotic songs and the signors, signoras and signoritas who
listened to them at the doors and balconies, seemed thrilled with
delight, at the musical recital of the grand victories of old Spain.
Peddlers moved along with an immense heap of miscellaneous wares fixed
in boxes on the backs of their mules. Tall, stately negresses, with
long, trailing dresses, of flashy green and yellow, walked along quite
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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