Donahoe's Magazine, Volume 15, No. 3, March 1886Various
History
Donahoe's Magazine, Volume 15, No. 3, March 1886
Various
Periodicals
After resting in my novel couch that evening, and experiencing no hurt
from the so-called formidable mosquito of the West Indies, I started
next morning, after a ten-o'clock breakfast of poached eggs, fried
plantains, meats of various kinds spiced with garlic, fruits, and other
nice things, to the Plaza de Armas, which is a beautiful square, and
only a couple of blocks from the Hotel de Europa. Towards evening the
Plaza presents a glittering sight. Its handsome palm-trees, roses,
Indian laurels, flowering shrubs, piers, railings, and statue of
Ferdinand, form a grand combination. The rambler to whom such scenes are
new, sinks almost unconsciously into a seat, and surrenders himself to
the irresistible influence of the music, fragrance and brilliancy of the
place. The military band discourses soft and delicious music. Soldiers
in gay uniforms, civilians in handsome dresses, and carriages containing
the wealthiest and handsomest of Havana's daughters, fill the square,
and one delightful stream of chat and laughter continues till the
performance is ended. The fine palace of the captain-general, the
beautiful chapel, El Templete (erected in honor of Columbus), the
university attached to the Church of St. Domingo, and several stores and
exchange offices border the Plaza. The scene is tropical, the moon's
clear beams mingle with the lamplight, and the sense of tranquility,
happiness, and repose, which characterizes the place and the crowds,
gives one a foretaste of Paradise. A very old tree stands in front of
the temple, and here it was that the first Mass was celebrated in the
island. The palace of the captain-general is two stories high, painted
light green, having a magnificent colonnade around the lower story, and
an elegant piazza around the upper one. On visiting it next day, I was
politely escorted by an officer through flights of marble staircases,
embellished with statuary and flower vases, into the presence of the
captain-general. He led me by vast, rich corridors to saloons
embellished with green furniture, marble floors, rich vases, walls full
of paintings, mirrors and statues. The ceilings were ornamented with
exquisite mosaics. The despatch apartment, dining-room, and chapel were
reached through splendid arches and highly-wrought pillars. Chandeliers
of exquisite design and great value added to the splendor of the
saloons. In winter the captain-general resides in the city palace; but
in summer he takes up his abode at the quinta, or country seat, outside
the town. A few minutes walk from here will take you to the cathedral,
which is a ponderous, time-worn building, constructed of a kind of
yellow stone, which has become mottled by age. I noticed doves cooing in
its heavy old window-sills. Though the exterior is plain, the inside of
the building is grand. Its floor is of marble, its walls are highly
frescoed, and its pillars are very lofty and round. The high altar is
of porphyry, and when I visited it, itself and the body of the church
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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