We steam on for a few miles, when we come to Welaka, one of the
healthiest localities of the state. It stands on a high bluff, fringed
with a magnificent growth of live oaks, clothed in their own beautiful
robes of green, undecorated by the grey Spanish moss, which, while
adding to the graceful appearance of the trees, tells plainly that the
malarial fiend is lurking somewhere near. In this locality is grown some
of the finest oranges in the state, as the soil is rich and dry, and all
the conditions are favourable to their successful cultivation. Directly
opposite the landing stage is the mouth of the wonderful Ocklawaha,
whose weird depths we have so lately penetrated. Three miles farther on
we reach Norwalk, a primitive landing place, where there seems nothing
to land for, and nowhere to go to when you have landed. But the
settlement, it seems, is laid more than a mile back from the river, and
is rather an important little town, the neighbourhood producing a large
amount of garden vegetables and fruits. Very few orange growers settle
in that location; very few tourists visit it; it is a simple city of
homes; it has the regulation number of schools (indeed the simplest
hamlet is well off on that score, the means for education are freely
scattered throughout the length and breadth of the land; the poorest
tillers of the land or toilers of the sea have no excuse for ignorance),
churches, banks, etc., and a thriving population of busy workers. It is
at this point the lower St. John’s river ends, and we pass into a narrow
crooked channel, varying from forty to several hundred feet wide. Here
the water loses its clear opaline blue, and reflects the clouds in dark
murky shadows. This dingy colour of the water, they say, is owing to the
rich, rank vegetation of this tropical region of the St. John’s river.
Everywhere the shores are covered with dense forests of oak, cypress,
willow, etc., interlaced with gigantic vines, some barren, some bearing
a rich fruitage of sweet wild grapes. The grey Spanish moss hangs from
the green branches, and reeds, rushes, and all kinds of long tropical
grasses form an impenetrable jungle down to the water’s edge--nay,
encroach upon the water’s self and sway gently on its surface; and
flowers of immense size and brilliant colours are abundant everywhere;
they spread over the surface of the water, and flourish on the vines, on
the trees, on everything or on nothing, for we catch an occasional
glimpse of the mysterious golden-hued air plant among the luxuriant
green foliage. Here, too, the alligators and other hideous river
reptiles abound, but you must have sharp eyes to get a glimpse of them,
for as the steamer approaches they hurry back, and dive under the water,
or hide upon the land. This dense jungle scenery is apt to give one an
idea that we are going through some of Nature’s primeval solitudes, her
secret haunts, impenetrable and uninhabitable for the human race. But
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