that is a wrong idea; this is the low-lying valley region; the ground
slopes upwards from the water’s edge, and within a mile or two--nay,
sometimes much nearer, only a few hundred yards away from the
waterside--are wide clearings where some adventurous pioneer has
squatted and made his home, and cultivates the land, his own not by
right of purchase, but possession. Only a few hundred yards from the
malarial region you may breathe pure, healthful air.
We soon emerge from these luxuriant picturesque regions, and are on the
wide river again. Rarely has one river so many phases as this
world-famous St. John’s; the scenery is always changing--a series of
panoramic views, land and water, combining to make one whole of
picturesque loveliness. We stop at two or three more unimportant
landing-places, pass some neat, solitary homes and thriving orange
groves, and then reach Georgetown, the entrance to Lake St. George. Here
a party of gentlemen with dogs and guns come on board. They are going on
a sporting expedition up the Indian river into wilder regions than we
dare to penetrate; for although the Indian river region is well known
and thoroughly appreciated, it is visited by very few tourists or
strangers, it being difficult of access, necessitating several days’
water travelling, and the accommodation for travellers being of the
roughest description, and even then only to be obtained at rare
intervals. To make amends, however, for the scarcity of places of public
entertainment, the inhabitants are most hospitable, and a guest chamber
is generally reserved in even the humblest farmhouse, where the stranger
is always made welcome to the best the house affords. This kind of
primitive casual entertainment is often far preferable to the gilded
glories of the stereotyped hotel. These Indian river regions are more
sparsely populated than those of St. John’s; this too is owing to its
general inaccessibility, for nowhere in all the state is there a richer
or more fertile soil calculated for the growth of cereals of all kinds,
fruits, vegetables, and sugar-cane attaining sometimes to sixteen feet
high--a single stalk yielding more than a gallon of juice; and cacao,
date, cocoanut, ginger, cassava, and yams may be cultivated with equal
profit. The river affords rare sport for the fishermen, for it abounds
with a great variety of fish, and is remarkable for its superb mullet,
weighing from three to nine pounds, and measuring from fifteen to twenty
inches in length. Turtling is also largely carried on, and is a most
lucrative business. The splendid hammock lands all along the Indian
river have a magnificent growth of hickory, mulberry, red elm, iron
wood, and crab wood; both the latter are finely grained, and capable of
receiving a fine polish. The surrounding woods abound with small game
and deer, and occasionally a small black bear shows himself, while wild
cats and such-like creatures may be found without much difficulty by
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