About twelve o’clock we pull up at a desolate-looking village; people
come out of their cottages, pigs and children tumbling one over the
other, to stare at this sudden irruption of humanity, at this hour when
no respectable train is expected to be on the road. We alight, and are
marshalled through numerous tumble-down cottages to a dilapidated
hotel--a cross between an Irish shanty and a low class refreshment bar.
Here we get a meal, or at least a substitute for one; we are all too
hungry to pay much attention to the quality of the food, provided we
get enough of it. The landlady, in large hoop earrings and a draggled
print gown, received us at the stair-head, and with apologies for the
poor entertainment she is able to afford us, on the ground of the
exceptional nature of the occasion; it is the very first time a train
has come to a standstill in this primitive part of the country.
There is a general clatter and chatter; two or three small negroes
flutter round like a flock of frightened geese; everybody seems to get
in everybody else’s way--they tumble over each other, tumble over us.
There is a general scrimmage and rush for such eatables as are here
attainable; one gets a cup of steaming coffee while the milk vanishes in
the distance; another is refreshed with a bowl of sugar; one gets proud
possession of a yard of corn bread, another grasps a dish of rancid
butter--but the difficulty is getting the two together; fresh eggs are
plentiful, and are piled like mountains of white cannon balls upon the
table. A trio of adventurous gentlemen make a raid upon the kitchen, and
reappear proudly bearing their spoils aloft; by degrees things shake
down and we manage to fill the vacuum within us. Our damaged baggage
master, with his dislocated shoulder bound up by amateur hands, is
cheerful, albeit in pain, and receives the attentions of the ladies with
great placidity; he has to be fed like a big baby, for he can’t use his
right hand, and his left is sprained and swollen. Everybody is
laughing, chatting, and grumbling all in a breath; as for us we never
enjoyed a thoroughly British growl at so small a price--twenty cents a
head!
On our way to the station we meet a wicked-looking little Topsy, with a
huge brown jug of new milk, just fresh from the cow; we speedily relieve
her of this responsibility, and in the twinkling of an eye change the
stone jug and its contents into a shower of “nickels.”
Re-entering the car we are again on our way, and enjoy a series of
dissolving views of some of the most charming scenery of the
South--through plantations of cotton trees, and red and white blossomed
dogwood. Slowly the world of green disappears beneath the grey twilight
shadows; the sun, which has been blazing like a ball of burnished gold
all day, seems suddenly to grow tired of shining, and draws his crimson
curtains round him and sinks suddenly to rest. Soon the lights of New
Orleans loom upon our sight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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