We alight at the railway terminus, at the foot of the levées, the Mecca
of our morning pilgrimage. We ascend a dozen cranky steps, and stand on
the top of the levée, with the coffee-coloured flood of the great
Mississippi rolling at our feet, and look back upon the low-lying city
behind us.
This king of rivers is here wide and winding, but drowsy and sluggish;
its vast waters rolling down from the north seem to languish here in the
indolence of the South; it stretches its slow length along, like a
sleeping giant with all its wondrous strength and power hushed beneath
the summer sun.
The levées form a delightfully cool promenade, and are thronged with
people on summer evenings. Cosy benches shaded by wide spreading green
trees are placed at certain distances, and glancing across the broad
brown lazy river to the opposite side the view is picturesque in the
extreme.
The architectural beauty of New Orleans is unique, and wholly unlike any
other Southern city; the avenues are wide and beautifully planted, a
generous leafy shade spreads every way you turn. The dwelling houses
which line St. Charles’s Avenue are graceful, classical structures;
there are no Brummagem gingerbread buildings, no blending together of
ancient and modern ideas, and running wild into fancy chimney-pots,
arches, points, and angles like a twelfth-cake ornament. Some are
fashioned like Greek temples, most impressive in their chaste outline
and simplicity of form; others straight and square, with tall Corinthian
columns or fluted pillars, sometimes of marble, sometimes of stone. The
severe architectural simplicity, the pure white buildings shaded by
beautiful magnolias and surrounded by brilliant shrubs and flowers, form
a vista charming to the eye and soothing to the senses, and all stands
silhouetted against the brightest of blue skies--a blue before which the
bluest of Italian skies would seem pale.
The aspect of the city changes on every side; we leave the fashionable
residential regions, and enter broad avenues lined with grand old forest
trees, sometimes in double rows, the thick leaved branches meeting and
forming a canopy overhead. The ground is carpeted with soft green turf,
and bare-legged urchins, black and white, are playing merry games; a
broken down horse is quietly grazing, and a cow is being milked under
the trees, while a company of pretty white goats, with a fierce looking
Billie at their head, are careering about close by. Pretty pastoral
bits of landscape on every side cling to the skirts, and fringe the
sides of this quaint city. As we get farther away from St. Charles’s
Avenue the better class of residences grow fewer and fewer, till they
cease altogether, and we come upon pretty green-shuttered cottages, with
their porches covered with blossoms, and rows of the old-fashioned straw
beehives in front. Here and there are tall tenement houses built of
cherry-red bricks, which are let out in flats to the labouring classes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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