We happen to be the only occupants of the car, and our driver, glancing
back at us through the sliding door, and realising that we are strangers
in the land, divides his attention between his horses and his
passengers. He has a pale, fair, melancholy face and dreamy eyes--a kind
of blond Henry Irving--and we cannot get rid of an idea that Hamlet the
Dane has followed his lamented father’s custom of “revisiting the
glimpses of the moon,” and is doing us the honour of driving our car.
Presently we come upon a procession that attracts our interest. A party
of people, chiefly of the gentler sex--I cannot in this case say the
fairer, as they are all black as coals--are slowly parading the
sidewalk, the girls, even down to little children three or four years
old, all clad in white. It has been raining and the streets are still
wet; they are tramping over muddy crossings in white satin slippers,
their white dresses draggling in the damp, while their brown or black
faces and black shining eyes beam with a kind of grotesque incongruity
through their white veils.
“A bridal party?” we remark interrogatively to our Hamlet. The Prince of
Denmark shakes his head, and vouchsafes a grave and dreamy smile as he
corrects our mistake: “No, ma’am. It’s a coloured funeral.”
Turning into Claiborne Street we fancy it must be the entrance-gate to
the forest primeval; as far as the eye can reach we gaze through long
vistas of ancient trees, whose huge trunks are gnarled and knotted and
scarred by the passing ages. This delightful avenue has four rows of
these glorious trees, with double car-tracks running under their cool
and welcome shade; down the centre, and crossed by rude rustic bridges,
runs what we supposed to be a narrow canal or natural running stream,
but we learn that it is an open sewer, the peculiar soil and sanitary
arrangements of the city necessitating a system of open drainage--which
is, however, by no means unsightly or offensive; and through the
arteries of the city there run these narrow sewers, carrying all the
impurities and refuse as a kind of tributary offering to the glorious
Mississippi.
The burial grounds or cemeteries we pass on our way have a strange
appearance, as in consequence of the peculiarities of the soil and
climate, the dead are not buried under the earth, but are laid upon its
surface with the stone monument raised above them.
Another day we have a light springy carriage, and avoiding the
car-tracks bowl over the soft green turf, beneath the arching trees,
with the sunlight glinting through. We drive out of the city, and wind
about among its picturesque suburbs--a charming drive, though the air is
moist and warm, and our strength seems oozing from our finger-tips. We
can imagine what New Orleans must be in summer time, when even in these
April days our vital forces grow faint and feeble.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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