Presently we begin to move, and slowly as a royal progress we roll on
towards Savannah. When we reach it the small hours of the morning are
already far on the march and we go supperless to bed. On taking a survey
of our surroundings by daylight we have reason to be very well satisfied
with our quarters. We have two large sunny rooms, most comfortably
furnished, opening on to a wide verandah overgrown with greenery, which
is luxuriant everywhere South.
A few words here concerning the accommodation for tourists which is to
be found in all Southern cities. On first setting our faces thitherward
we received a mass of gratuitous information--all of which we accepted
_cum grano salis_. We were neither disposed to be led nor misled by
friendly counsels. “There are no decent hotels--nothing but ramshackle
old buildings, mere refuges for the destitute.”
“Where you’ll always find lively companionship--especially by night.”
“Perhaps an alligator in the morning, or a comfortable moccasin or black
snake coiling round your feet to get themselves warm.”
“A family of young roaches six inches long flying out of your shoe as
you go to put your foot into it.”
“Nothing to eat but tough steaks, and hominy fried in fat, or rusty
bacon served in its own grease.”
“Alligator soup is a rare dainty.”
“And they’ll dish up a rattlesnake into a tasty ragout. No fresh
milk--no fresh meat--nothing but tallow-fried steak; ground beans in
your coffee-cup in the morning.”
These fancy sketches, however, bore not the slightest resemblance to the
actual truth; they were born of a _too_ lively imagination, with no
experience to keep it from rambling into the realms of fiction. In _all_
the Southern cities we visited there was most excellent hotel
accommodation to be found, though the hotels are not as a rule, either
so large or luxurious as those in other portions of the United States.
There are fewer grand corridors, less velvet upholstery, less carving
and gilding and gorgeous mirrors; but the rooms are large, airy, and
conveniently furnished, and nowhere is a comfortable lounge or
rocking-chair found wanting. The cuisine is not always such as to tickle
the palate of an epicure, or gratify the taste of a gourmet. There is no
attempt (and how often in the most pretentious hotels it is _only_ an
attempt) at French cookery--no _entrées_, no “high falutin” arrangements
at the dinner table; but there is generally good soup, a great variety
of excellent fish and vegetables, poultry, fruit, and pies, and
puddings, and most delicious crisp salads of all descriptions--and what
can a whole-souled, hungry mortal desire more? No one with a healthy
appetite and good digestion will complain of Southern fare, to which
Southern courtesy imparts perhaps its sweetest savour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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