Down the YellowstoneFreeman, Lewis R. (Lewis Ransome)
General
Down the Yellowstone
Freeman, Lewis R. (Lewis Ransome)
Yellowstone River
What the Yellowstone is in the early spring only those who have seen it
at that season can realize, and only those who have made the summer tour
are in a position to imagine. Let one who has breasted the sweltering
heat-waves that radiate from Obsidian Cliff in July, trying to picture
the impressive beauty of that massive pile of volcanic glass through the
translucent dust-clouds raised by the passage of two or three score
cars--let him fancy that cliff, its summit crowned with a feathered
crest of snow, huge drifts at its base, and its whole face, washed and
polished by the elements, glittering as though panelled with shining
ebony. Let him think of the time his car was halted on the Continental
Divide and the driver endeavoured to point out one of the distant
eminences, guessed dimly through the smoke-clouds rising beyond
Shoshone Lake, as the Grand Teton, and then fancy himself standing at
the same point and looking out across the valley through air that,
windowed and cleansed by the winds and snows of the winter, is so clear
that the bottle-green in the rims of the glaciers is discernible at
forty miles. Let him who has admired the transcendent beauty of the
steam-clouds swirling above Old Faithful in the summer imagine these
clouds increased two-fold in whiteness and density, and ten-fold in
volume, by the quicker condensation of a zero morning. Let him picture
the black gorge of the Fire Hole Canyon, where the river plunges down to
the Upper Geyser Basin, forming Kepplar Cascade, transformed to a
shining fairyland of sparkling crystal and silver, everything in range
of the flying spray spangled and plated and jewelled by the ice and
frost, as though a whole summer day's sunshine had been shaken up with a
winter night's snowfall, and then fashioned by an army of elfin workmen
into a marvellous million-pieced fretwork, adorned with traceries
ethereal and delicate, and of a fragile loveliness beyond words to
describe.
All these things, and many more, the summer tourist will have to picture
in coming near to a conception of what the wizardry of winter has
effected. There is the novelty of seeing a rim of ice around the
Devil's Frying Pan, and the great hole that the up-shooting gush of a
geyser tears in a cloud of driven snow. There is the massive beauty of
the ice bulwark upon Virginia Cascade, and then, in winter as in summer
the scenic climax, the lower falls and the Grand Canyon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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