DEAREST MADAM,--I am now looking on the sea, from a house of sir
Alexander Macdonald, in the isle of Skie. Little did I once think of
seeing this region of obscurity, and little did you once expect a
salutation from this verge of European life. I have now the pleasure of
going where nobody goes, and seeing what nobody sees. Our design is to
visit several of the smaller islands, and then pass over to the south-west
of Scotland.
I returned from the sight of Buller's Buchan to lord Errol's, and,
having seen his library, had, for a time, only to look upon the sea,
which rolled between us and Norway. Next morning, August 25th, we
continued our journey through a country not uncultivated, but so denuded
of its woods, that, in all this journey, I had not travelled a hundred
yards between hedges, or seen five trees fit for the carpenter. A few
small plantations may be found, but I believe scarcely any thirty years
old; at least, they are all posterior to the union. This day we dined
with a country-gentleman, who has in his grounds the remains of a
Druid's temple, which, when it is complete, is nothing more than a
circle, or double circle, of stones, placed at equal distances, with a
flat stone, perhaps an altar, at a certain point, and a stone, taller
than the rest, at the opposite point. The tall stone is erected, I
think, at the south. Of these circles, there are many in all the
unfrequented parts of the island. The inhabitants of these parts respect
them as memorials of the sculpture of some illustrious person. Here I
saw a few trees. We lay at Bamff.
August 26th. We dined at Elgin, where we saw the ruins of a noble
cathedral; the chapter-house is yet standing. A great part of Elgin is
built with small piazzas to the lower story. We went on to Foris, over
the heath where Macbeth met the witches, but had no adventure; only in
the way we saw, for the first time, some houses with fruit-trees about
them. The improvements of the Scotch are for immediate profit; they do
not yet think it quite worth their while to plant what will not produce
something to be eaten, or sold, in a very little time. We rested at
Foris.
A very great proportion of the people are barefoot; shoes are not yet
considered as necessaries of life. It is still the custom to send out
the sons of gentlemen without them into the streets and ways. There are
more beggars than I have ever seen in England; they beg, if not
silently, yet very modestly.
Next day we came to Nairn, a miserable town, but a royal burgh, of which
the chief annual magistrate is styled lord provost. In the neighbourhood
we saw the castle of the old thane of Cawdor. There is one ancient
tower, with its battlements and winding stairs, yet remaining; the rest
of the house is, though not modern, of later erection.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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