On the 28th we went to Fort George, which is accounted the most regular
fortification in the island. The major of artillery walked with us round
the walls, and showed us the principles upon which every part was
constructed, and the way in which it could be defended. We dined with
the governour, sir Eyre Coote, and his officers. It was a very pleasant
and instructive day; but nothing puts my honoured mistress out of my
mind.
At night we came to Inverness, the last considerable town in the north,
where we staid all the next day, for it was Sunday, and saw the ruins of
what is called Macbeth's castle. It never was a large house, but was
strongly situated. From Inverness we were to travel on horseback.
August 30th. We set out with four horses. We had two highlanders to run
by us, who were active, officious, civil, and hardy. Our journey was,
for many miles, along a military way, made upon the banks of Lough Ness,
a water about eighteen miles long, but not, I think, half a mile broad.
Our horses were not bad, and the way was very pleasant; the rock, out of
which the road was cut, was covered with birch-trees, fern, and heath.
The lake below was beating its bank by a gentle wind, and the rocks
beyond the water, on the right, stood sometimes horrid, and wild, and
sometimes opened into a kind of bay, in which there was a spot of
cultivated ground, yellow with corn. In one part of the way we had trees
on both sides, for, perhaps, half a mile. Such a length of shade,
perhaps Scotland cannot show in any other place.
You are not to suppose, that here are to be any more towns or inns. We
came to a cottage, which they call the General's Hut, where we alighted
to dine, and had eggs and bacon, and mutton, with wine, rum, and
whiskey. I had water.
At a bridge over the river, which runs into the Ness the rocks rise on
three sides, with a direction almost perpendicular, to a great height;
they are, in part, covered with trees, and exhibit a kind of dreadful
magnificence:--standing like the barriers of nature, placed to keep
different orders of being in perpetual separation. Near this bridge is
the fall of Fiers, a famous cataract, of which, by clambering over the
rocks, we obtained a view. The water was low, and, therefore, we had
only the pleasure of knowing that rain would make it, at once, pleasing
and formidable; there will then be a mighty flood, foaming along a rocky
channel, frequently obstructed by protuberances, and exasperated by
reverberation, at last precipitated with a sudden descent, and lost in
the depth of a gloomy chasm.
We came, somewhat late, to Fort Augustus, where the lieutenant-governour
met us beyond the gates, and apologized that, at that hour, he could
not, by the rules of a garrison, admit us, otherwise than at a narrow
door, which only one can enter at a time. We were well entertained and
well lodged, and, next morning, after having viewed the fort, we pursued
our journey.
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