The costly splendour of attire is well known in Elizabeth's reign, which began with the same form of hair and head-dress as with Mary, the hat being set rather higher on the hair. The ruffs, which were imported already starched from Holland, assumed larger proportions and complications when the methods of starching became known in England about 1564. Stow describes ruffs growing to a quarter of a yard deep; these were no doubt supported by piccalilloes, though they are not actually mentioned till after 1600, but they surely came with the fan-shaped structures of these later days. White, red, blue or purple colours were used in the starching, and yellow in the latter days of this century. The introduction of this curved fanlike collar setting became a grand and complicated feature right into the 17th century. "Make up" became very apparent on the faces at this time, for Bishop Hall censured the fashion in a choice sermon, saying, "Hear this, ye plaster-faced Jezabels! God will one day wash them with fire and brimstone." [Illustration: FIG. 54.--Elizabethan modes.] [Illustration: Plate XII.-- (_a_) Lady's Outdoor Costume. 1785-95. (_b_) Costume. Early 18th Century. (_c_) Silk Brocade Dress. 1760-80.] [Illustration: FIG. 55. 1585-1610 1600-1620 1595-1605 1605-1615 1589-1600] The bodices grew very long and pointed in the waist, the neck setting being mostly treated in the same =V= shape, even open down to the waist point was filled with a decorated stomacher, and a deep oval-shaped neck was seen at the end of the reign. An outer opened sleeve was now favoured, caught in front at the elbow and hanging to the knee over a fairly tight undersleeve with a turned-back lace cuff or ruffle. With this came the high-set fan ruff on its wooden support at the back of the neck, and consequently a higher coiffure. [Illustration: FIG. 56. Nos. 1, 2, 3, 1540-50, and other shoe forms worn in the reign of Elizabeth.]