I have striven to gather as many representative patterns of dress types and accessories as possible, and also give many measurements from the various examples, when I have been unable to obtain a complete pattern. The character of cut and proportion is the essential point in the study of dress design, and the intimate knowledge of periods. When seeing a collection of patterns, one is astonished at the great variety in cut used to arrive at the different bodice types. Several patterns of single pieces are given, as it aids one to find the fellow-part; for example, the photo of a back given in Fig. C, Plate III (see p. 55), will go with the front cut on page 290; even though these two pieces did not belong to the same body, the cut is seen from which to design the missing part. Often a small piece is wanting for the top of the shoulder, which can easily be supplied to fill the sleeve measurement. The types of trimmings in the different centuries will soon be acquired by a careful student, and the proportions of patterns will be valued for gaining the character. I believe with this collection one could get the true effects of any style of dress seen in the period prints. The drawings are mostly scaled for the half, and the measurement, in inches, will be found by dots on the top of the collotypes, and by a marked line on the pattern pages. One must note, with the 18th-century dress, the sleeve cuffs can be changed, so I give, on page 300, a full-size measurement of the elbow-cuff seen in Fig. A, Plate XVI (see p. 167), and a deeper one of this style is seen on Fig. C, Plate XII (see p. 135), gathered seven times at the elbow. The plain square type was pleated in the front as given on page 300, and a variety of this character is shown on Fig. B, Plate XV (see p. 154). Though many patterns may be found remarkable in proportions, an allowance is often to be made for the undersetting, as well as for the thick, straight corsets worn to the end of the 18th century. I give several specimens of quilting on petticoats of the 18th century, which will probably be found useful to artists; the measurement is also given of their circumference, which attained similar proportions to those set on the Victorian crinolines, going 3 to 4 yards round: four 18th century ones measured 100, 114, 116, 120 inches, and they are often 1 inch longer at the sides, to allow for setting over the panniers; a pattern is given on pages 213 and 332. The embroidered pockets on page 300 were worn in pairs at the sides on the petticoats, and only showed when the dress was looped up. The extra lawn sleeves, given on page 287, show how precious the superfine linen was held, with its superb gathered work, lace ruffles, and often fine embroidery; these pieces could be looked after with special care in the laundry, and could be tacked, pinned, or buttoned on when required.