Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
The 16th and 17th century collars were mostly attached to the chemise or
shirt, as is seen in many of the old prints. On page 289 I give examples
of shape of the various stomachers, which will be found useful for
getting the characteristic proportions. The scarves worn round the body
of the 17th century cavaliers were from 2 feet 3 inches wide to 3 feet 6
inches, and from 8 feet 6 inches to 7 feet in length.
[Illustration: Plate XXXII.--
(_a_) Silk Dress. 1860-70.
_Pattern, see p. 346._
(_b_) Gauze Walking Dress. 1850-60.
(_c_) Silk Dress. 1848-58.
_Pattern, see p. 344._]
The stocking top, Fig. C, Plate VI (see p. 74), is probably of similar
proportions to the woollen one in the Victoria and Albert Museum, on
which the bell-top circumference is 36 inches, and the full length of
stocking 38 inches. On page 285 a cap of three pieces is given; their
real design is at present unknown, but I trust the Museum authorities
may soon discover their placing, for many of these pieces are in
existence, and this set in my collection is impressed with a beautiful
pattern. The bodice, Fig A, Plate X (see p. 119), should have been set
on a stiff-fronted corset to give it the straight style, as it is
charmingly proportioned and clean in outline. I have also measured a
short circular cloak of the early 17th century, which is 34 inches in
diameter, with a square collar 10 inches deep; and another cape of the
late 16th century, 40 inches in diameter. On page 290 will be found the
smaller tabs which are placed round the jerkin, with a deep front point,
as in Fig. A, Plate VIII_a_ (see p. 103); the collar of this type often
rises 2¾ inches in the front to 3 inches at the back, in order to
carry the stiff ruff or deep turned-down collar. Tabs of the smallest
dimensions, in the earlier Elizabeth and James character, generally have
six pieces from front to the middle of the back, which are from 2 to 3
inches deep. The epaulets are made in small stiff tabs, caught together
in two places only, and so have plenty of give in the shoulder
movements; they run to 2¼ inches at the widest part, and do not
continue right under the arm. Fig. D, Plate V (see p. 71), has the
middle seam of the back open from the waist to within 2 inches of the
collar, which is noticeable on many of the later Charles I coats. Long
aprons are conspicuous through the 17th century, and one measured was 42
inches wide, gathered to 15 inches at the waist; they were decorated
with three bands of embroidered insertion down the front, with a 3-inch
plain border, edged with small lace; this is typical in character of
design, as is also the same style of linen cape seen on a figure, page
159. A similar one, lent by Sir Robert Filmer, is at the Victoria and
Albert Museum; also a cap, of which I give a pattern, A, page 285. The
smaller type of embroidered aprons of the late 17th and 18th centuries
measure 40 inches wide, 19½ inches deep, with the centre dipping to
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