17¾ inches; another shape is 26 inches wide, 18 inches in centre, and 13½ inches on sides. The bodice, with deep skirt, Fig. B, Plate XVIII (see p. 183), is a type seen all through the 18th century, both longer and shorter in the skirt. The pattern of the 17th-century breeches is interesting as regards the cut, the upper part being kept plain, otherwise the gathered fullness would have disturbed the set of the jerkin tabs; the band of these breeches has six hooks either side to back, which fasten to eyes on an under flap sewn on body of jerkin. The epaulet on this pattern is only a ¾-inch piece, braided with two narrow braids, and the bows on tabs are of ribbon, 1½ inches wide. The three patterns of capes given on pages 349, 350 will be found useful, as they are simple and very typical of the Victorian times, long shawls being otherwise much used. The fullness of the Elizabethan overdress seen on B, Plate II (see p. 42), is 66 inches to the back seam, and the Fig. C, on the same plate, is 47 inches. The "jump," or jacket, Fig. A, Plate III (see p. 55), is 100 inches round, the fullness of the sleeve 13 inches, and the length of back 32 inches. An over-tunic of the early 17th century is interesting to examine, though it is a specimen of German costume. [Illustration: Plate XXXIII.-- (_a_) Silk Dress with Court Train. 1828-38. (_b_) Silk Afternoon Dress. 1872-78. (_c_) Silk Coat and Skirt. 1855-65. _Pattern, see p. 320._] PATTERNS TO SCALE _For Detailed List, see page 353._ [Illustration: PATTERN 1. _Made in satin on wood_ _Piccadilloes 1580-1630_ _Side view open_ _Gather to a ring at mark_ _Gather to a ring at mark_ _A pair belonging above_ _3 Caps 16-17th c._ _12 in. ties_ _1600-1650 17th c._ _Others measure_ 16×14 14×9 13×9 _Cap 16-17th c._ _Cap of pierced embroidery, late 17th & early 18th cent._] [Illustration: PATTERN 2. _17th c. Stock, Chas. II._ _18th c._ _Stiff gorget for carrying Collar_ _Stock_ _Cap, embroidered, 1st half 18th c._ _Collar and caps, 17 century_] [Illustration: PATTERN 3. _Ruff, 1590-1610_ _24 in. round_ _15 round_ _20 in. round_ _18 century_ 14 _1st half of 17th c._ 10 _Caps and Extra Sleeves of Fine Linen 17 century_] [Illustration: PATTERN 4. _Embroidered linen jacket, front and sleeve, 16th century_ _Embroidered linen bodice Front, Chas. I._] [Illustration: PATTERN 5. _Elizabethan jerkin of punched leather._ _Gold embroidered stomacher, about 1600-30_ 1660-1689 1690-1730 1680-1730] [Illustration: PATTERN 6. _Set of tabs for male jerkin, 17 cent._ _Back_ _Front_ _Side_ _Pattern type from worked pieces Elizabethan reign 1570-1605_] [Illustration: PATTERN 7. _Circular Cape, 17 cent._ _Collar_ _Join top and gather at dots._ _Cap, 1580-1630._] [Illustration: PATTERN 8. _Bodice_ _Fig. 1 Plate 10_] [Illustration: PATTERN 9. _Corset, 1620-60_ _Cut of bodice, Fig. B, Plate 5_ _Corset, 1665-85_ _Corset, 1685-1705_]