“Beau nez, dont les rubis ont coûté mainte pipe
De vin blanc et clairet ...”
There was, however, another Claret, a compounded wine, resembling
_hypocras_, which Giraldus Cambrensis, who lived in the twelfth century,
classes thus: “Claretum, mustum, et medonem” (Claret, must, and mead).
And the venerable Franciscan, Bartholomew Glanville,[24] says: “Claretum,
ex vino et melle et speciebus aromaticis est confectum” (Claret is made
from wine, honey, and aromatic spices). It makes a marked feature in a
curious tenure.[25] “John de Roches holds the Manor of Winterslew, in
the county of Wilts, by the Service, that when our Lord the King should
abide at Clarendon, he should come to the Palace of the King there, and
go into the Butlery, and draw out of any vessel he should find in the
said Butlery at his choice, as much Wine as should be needful for making
(_pro factura_) a Pitcher of Claret (_unius Picheri Claretti_), which he
should make at the King’s charge, and that he should serve the King with
a Cup, and should have the vessel from whence he took the Wine, with all
the Remainder of the Wine left in the Vessel, together with the Cup from
whence the King should drink that Claret.” This refers to a roll of 50
Ed. III., or 1376.
[Illustration: FROM THE “COMPOST ET KALENDRIER DES BERGERES,” 1499.]
But this is not the Claret of our days, which is the wine produced in the
countries watered by the rivers Dordogne and Garonne and the Gironde,
at least it should be so; but, in truth, owing to the good railway
communication, wine comes to Bordeaux from every part of France, large
quantities owing their birth to the banks of the Rhone, from the Hérault,
Roussillon, etc.; and a judicious blending at Bordeaux, and its being
shipped thence, is a very good title to its being grown in the Médoc; but
the quantity shipped to all parts of the world, compared with the acreage
of growth, entirely precludes the supposition that it possibly could
have been the production of that district.
The nobility of the Médoc wines is small. There are only four _premiers
crûs_, but they are magnificent. They are Château Lafitte, Château
Latour, Château Margaux, and Château Haut-Brion; and all these,
especially the Latour, have a flavour and seductive _bouquet_ all their
own, which is believed to arise from an extremely volatile oil contained
in the grape skins, which, like all ethers, requires time to evolve and
mature. But the soil, undoubtedly, has most to do with it, and this must
be in a very large degree composed of fragments of rock, small and large,
while the smooth round pebbles reflect the rays of the sun and throw them
upwards, so as almost to surround the grapes with light and heat. Again,
these stones absorbing the sun’s rays during the day, give out warmth
after sunset, whilst they keep the roots of the vines cool, and prevent
to a great degree the evaporation of the natural and necessary moisture
of the earth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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