The Germans, says Cyrus Redding, like vain men of other nations, have
wasted a good deal of idle conjecture on the antiquity of the culture
of the vine in their country; and then, as though to show by example
that this waste of idle conjecture is not confined to the Germans, Mr.
Redding continues the investigation of this important matter himself.
In the opinion of an experienced merchant these wines have a “distinct
character and classification of their own.” Their alcoholic strength is
low, averaging about 18 per cent.
[Illustration: This illustration dates 1608 as “A Sciographie or Modell
of that stupendous vessel which is at this day shewed in the Pallace
of the Count Palatine of Rhene in the citie of Heidelberg.” A model of
this Tun was shown at the German Exhibition held in London, 1891. Its
capacity was eclipsed by a famous _tonneau_, elaborately ornamented with
allegorical figures, etc., which was shown in the French Exhibition of
1889. It would hold 200,000 bottles of Champagne, and came from Epernay.
It had to be drawn by a large team, by road, and the French press was
full of its imaginary adventures on its journey to Paris.]
To the north of Coblentz the wines are of little comparative value,
though a Rhenish wine has been produced at Bodendorf, near Bonn. On the
Rhine or its tributary rivers between Coblentz and Mayence, all the
most celebrated wines of Germany are grown. The grapes preferred for
general cultivation are the Riessling, a small, white, harsh species. The
true _Hochheimer_, daily consumed in Germany, is grown to the eastward
of Mentz, between there and Frankfort. The wines mellow best in large
vessels, an experience which has produced the celebrated Heidelberg Tun,
holding some six hundred hogsheads. The distinguishing characteristics
of German wine have been said to be generosity, dryness, fine flavour,
and endurance of age. The dyspeptic will learn with delight that the
strong wines of the Rhine are extremely salutary, and contain less acid
than any other. It is also averred that they are never saturated with
brandy. _Liebfrauenmilch_[27] is grown at Worms. It is full bodied,
as is that of _Scharlachberg_. Wines of _Nierstein_,[28] _Laubenheim_,
and _Oppenheim_ are good, but _Deidesheimer_ is considered superior to
them. _Hock_[29] is derived from Hochheim; but nearly every town on the
banks of the Rhine gives its name to some lauded vintage. The flavour of
Hock is supposed to be improved by thin green glasses. Perhaps, says the
judicious Redding, this is mere fancy. The Palatinate wines are cheaper
Hocks. Moselles have a more delicate perfume. The whole eastern bank of
the Rhine to Lorich, called the Rheingau, about fourteen miles in extent,
has been famous for its wines for ages. Naturally, therefore, it was
once the property of the Church. Here is _Schloss-Johannisberger_, once
nearly destroyed by General Hoche, where a leading Rhine wine is made.
_Steinberger_ takes the next rank to _Johannisberger_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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